Landlocked Salmon

On our recent roadtrip to New England and Nova Scotia, we crossed the Salmon River in New York that was clearly flowing into Lake Ontario; the river rises on the Tug Hill Plateau east of the Lake.  Having always associated salmon with marine environments, I was intrigued and did some research.

In the Northeast U.S. and Eastern Canada, landlocked salmon are a subspecies of the Atlantic Salmon, having become trapped in freshwater lakes during the Pleistocene, when glaciers altered the regional hydrology.  Landlocked Atlantic Salmon were first discovered in Maine but native populations were later found in Lake Ontario and Lake Champlain as well.  Unlike marine salmon species, these salmon spend most of their lives in freshwater lakes, ascending feeder streams to spawn.  The native populations dwindled over time (due to pollution, dams, overfishing and other human influences) but have been sustained through stocking programs.

Landlocked salmon are also found in the Pacific Northwest, where similar geologic events likely played a role in their evolution and where fisheries now introduce them into freshwater ecosystems.

 

The Elusive Moose

Throughout our travels across New England and Southeastern Canada, we saw many references to moose.  Road signs warned of potential collisions and a host of streams, lakes, mountains, refuges, parks, towns, shops, taverns and beverages were named in honor of those elusive creatures.

Though we drove through "moose habitat" in early morning or late daylight hours (when moose are especially active), we never caught sight of these large, northern herbivores.  Were it not for convincing evidence on nature videos, one might think moose are in a league with Sasquatch!

Of course, I jest.  While I have observed moose in the more open landscapes of the American West, they are certainly hard to locate in the dense vegetation of the Northeast (if they do exist!). 

What Was not Observed

Over the past few weeks, I have described landscapes across New England and Southeastern Canada that we encountered on our roadtrip to Nova Scotia.  Today, I must report on geography that was not seen.

Setting off from Albany, New York, at dawn this morning, we climbed westward through the Mohawk River Valley.  Unfortunately, due to dense fog, I could not see the River or its associated terrain.  However, I did see road signs indicating that we were crossing the Mohawk or the Erie Canal that parallels the River.

Near the end of the Pleistocene, Lake Ontario was three times its current size as glacial meltwater expanded south of the retreating ice sheet.  Since the St. Lawrence Valley was blacked by the glacier, this massive lake (now known as Glacial Lake Iroquois) drained through the Mohawk Valley, now occupied by the Mohawk River.  Sadly, I could not observe the remnants of that natural history today.

Acadia National Park

Acadia National Park stretches across Mount Desert Island on the Atlantic Coast of Maine.  Its renowned landscapes are interspersed with private land and communities, including the tourist mecca of Bar Harbor.  As a result, human pressure on the island's ecosystems is much greater than one might expect.

Early this morning, just after dawn, we entered the Park, hoping to beat the crowds.  As a result, we enjoyed a a walk along the rocky coast (photo) and a steep climb to an isolated summit without encountering many fellow tourists.  We had planned to ascend Cadillac Mountain but learned that that adventure must be scheduled in advance.

As I have discussed in the past, our National Parks are under assault by too many human visitors and I plead guilty as one who has explored most of them.  The decision to limit access to popular sites or to the Parks in general is unfortunate but, I believe, appropriate.  Protecting sensitive natural ecosystems has become an increasingly difficult challenge.

Brier Island

South of Digby, Nova Scotia, a peninsula extends southwestward, broken by two passes into islands at its western extent.  At the western end of this chain is Brier Island, the westernmost point in Nova Scotia.  The peninsula and its islands are separated from the mainland by St. Mary's Bay while they represent the southeastern shore of the vast Bay of Fundy.

Our whale-watching adventure, again cancelled due to high winds, was to have originated at Brier Island so we decided to explore the island itself.  Our best options proved to be graveled roads that lead to its two lighthouses, overlooking the Bay of Fundy at the west and northeast ends of the island.  Seascapes and coastal wetlands at the western lighthouse were especially scenic (photo) and both seabirds and migrant raptors (sharp-shinned hawks and broad-winged hawks) were abundant.  Unfortunately, no whales were observed in the turbulent waters of the Bay.

Tomorrow morning we will leave Nova Scotia via a two-hour ferry trip across the Bay of Fundy to Saint John, New Brunswick; from there we will drive eastward to re-enter the U.S. at the Maine border.  If time permits, we hope to visit Acadia National Park before our long journey back to Missouri.

Crossing Southern Nova Scotia

Leaving Halifax this morning, we drove south to Polly's Cove (photo), where coastal scrub and rock formations offered scenic seascapes and inland vistas.  From there, we continued farther south and cut westward across southern Nova Scotia.

Midway along that transit we reached Kejimkujik National Park.  Stretching along the Mersey River Valley, the refuge offers a fine network of trails, leading through forest, out to beautiful inland lakes and past a variety of geologic formations; it is also a popular destination for canoe trips and kayaking.

We will spend our last two nights In Nova Scotia at Digby, on the southwest coast of the Island Province.  It is known for its whale-watching tours and we hope to participate if weather permits. 

A Day in Halifax

For the first time on our roadtrip, we spent a day in an urban center and our decision to visit Halifax was pleasantly rewarding.  Perched on the edge of a natural harbor, Halifax is an attractive and walker-friendly city.  

Though it welcomes both freighters and cruise ships, it is of modest size and easily explored.  Parking near its center, we spent the day touring its outdoor highlights; the first of these was the fine City Gardens, harboring a pond, sculptures and an excellent variety of floral and plant displays.  Our second stop was the city's historic Citadel, a British naval fortress during the 18th and 19th Centuries that overlooks Halifax and its waterways.

Much of our day was spent along the waterfront, where an attractive boardwalk leads to wharfs, shops, restaurants and recreation sites.  A visit to the Maritime Museum, accessed from the boardwalk, was interesting and educational though a bit crowded on this mild, sunny weekend.  Should you have the opportunity, I strongly recommend a visit to this historic yet inviting coastal city. 

Bras d'Or Lake

Bras d'Or Lake (photo) is actually a large, multi-armed estuary in central Cape Breton Island that has two natural connections to the Atlantic Ocean at its northeastern extent.  Though several rivers and numerous creeks drain into the "lake," it is subject to tidal flow and thus has brackish water.  A man-made canal, used to facilitate shipping, also connects Bras d'Or Lake to the ocean at its southeastern end.

Almost 1100 square kilometers in size, the estuary is bordered by glacial drumlins in its northwestern region.  The variable salinity of its water greatly augments the diversity of its wetlands and resident wildlife and its varied ecosystem has received designation as a UNESCO Biosphere Preserve.

While our exposure to Bras d"Or Lake was strictly from adjacent roadways, knowing that this vast estuary is being protected for the welfare of our planet and the benefit of future generations was rewarding enough. 

Atlantic Coast Trails of Cape Breton

On our last day in Cape Breton, we took two hikes along the Atlantic Coast, where the waves are more powerful and the seascapes are more dramatic.  The first was the Middle Head Trail, which extends eastward along a peninsula, east of the Keltic Resort and north of Cape Smokey.

This undulating trail offers multiple views across the bays to its north and south and culminates at a rocky overlook (photo).  A popular hike, especially for patrons of the resort, it is not ideal for those seeking solitude.  Nevertheless, this trail officially lies within the boundary of the National Park.

Our second hike was along the Coastal Trail of the Cape Breton Highlands National Park, which leads out to spectacular rock formations, molded by the relentless force of the sea (photo).  At one location, the power of rushing water has carved a deep, narrow canyon into the coastal cliffs.

Both trails offer excellent vantage points for whale watching (though not successful today) and for watching sea birds; northern gannets and cormorants were abundant and we also observed a few common loons.  Tomorrow we head south to Halifax, where we will spend the next two days. 

Across the Top of Cape Breton

What do you do if weather conditions cancel your whale-watching adventure?  We chose to drive to the top of the broad plateau that is the central landscape of Cape Breton Highlands National Park and take a walk in the rain.  On the positive side, a sign warned of moose in the area and the trail led to a scenic, backcountry lake (photo).  Though we did not encounter any of those large, northern herbivores, we did see their tracks!

We then crossed to the Atlantic side of Cape Breton, setting our sights on White Point, a peninsula of tundra-like landscape that offers spectacular seascapes (photo).  There we encountered a bald eagle, cormorants, northern gannets, common eiders and white-winged scoters.  Despite a prolonged vigil, we did not see the tell-tale spouting of whales.

We now begin our journey down the east coast of Nova Scotia.  Reports will be filed over the next few days.. 

West Coast of Cape Breton Island

It was a cool, rainy morning on Cape Breton Island but, upon arriving at Inverness, on its west coast, a brief respite was granted.  We took advantage of that break in the rain to hike along the town's shoreline boardwalk, returning on the beach (photo).

Since the rain bands were moving off to the northeast, we headed south to Port Hood.  There, at the city park, a boardwalk leads out between scenic wetlands (photo) and the beach, ending at a sandy spit.  A large flock of great black-backed gulls lounged on a secluded stretch of the shore.

Tomorrow we go whale watching, scheduled to depart from Pleasant Bay, farther up the coast.  A report on that experience will follow.

Crossing to Nova Scotia

Having spent the night in Charlottetown, Prince Edward Island, we drove to the National Park on the north shore of the island.  There we enjoyed a pleasant walk along its broad, sandy beach (photo) until it was time to catch a ferry to Nova Scotia.

That ride, across the calm Gulf of St. Lawrence, was just as relaxing.  Gulls and cormorants were abundant on the open water, joined by a fair number of northern gannets.  We also saw a dozen or so harbor seals as we approached the dock.

A two-hour drive through forested hills brought us to a small coastal town in Cape Breton, which will serve as home base for the next two days.  Over the next week, we hope to explore most of Nova Scotia.  Details to follow. 

Just Photos from New Brunswick

There is an old saying that "a picture is worth a thousand words."  In the spirit of that statement, here are 3000+ words on the coast of New Brunswick, Canada.

                                         Bay of Fundy from Irving Nature Park in Saint John.

Shepody National Wildlife Area

Hopewell Rocks

 

Meeting Lee in Bangor

Yesterday morning, we left Adirondack Park, driving northeast through the Ausable River Valley.  Once on the broad valley of Lake Champlain, we traveled north before crossing the lake just south of the Canadian border.

For the rest of the day, we meandered eastward through the scenic landscapes of Vermont, New Hampshire and Maine.  Unlike New York, which labels every creek, river and watershed, these northern States do not introduce their numerous streams to travelers, disappointing geography buffs such as myself. And, despite plenty of warning signs along the roadways, we did not encounter a moose on this stretch of our journey.

By nightfall, we were at our destination (a motel in Bangor, Maine), safely ahead of Tropical Storm Lee's predicted wrath.  Rain arrived overnight and it is a bit windy this morning but the storm has weakened and is unlikely to affect our road trip schedule.  On to Canada today. 

Climbing Bald Mountain

It was a beautiful fall day in the Adirondacks, mostly sunny and cool.  As a result, we drove to the west-central region of the Park to climb Bald Mountain.

A ridge of Precambrian rock with numerous outcrops of granite, this mountain offers a gradual climb to a summit that offers a broad view of nearby lakes and distant ridges.  Nevertheless, the hiker is confronted by slabs and domes of rock that must be traversed; the alternative is to skirt the outcrops by trudging across the soggy, forest floor.  Those who persist are rewarded with spectacular views en route (see photo).

Tomorrow we have plans to head for Bangor, Maine, but will keep an eye on the weather forecast as the remnants of Hurricane Lee push into the region.  Respect for the power of nature is always a wise choice.  

East to the Adirondacks

Leaving Watertown, New York, this morning, we followed the Black River Valley eastward to Carthage.  There, Route 3 angles to the northeast, headed for Adirondacks Park, the landscape of which has been sculpted from a Precambrian Dome by glaciers and streams.

Our first adventure in that magnificent Park was a hike up Mount Arab (summit elevation 2533 feet), which offers a broad view (photo) of distant peaks and lakes.  Though the trail is officially only a mile in length, it is mostly a well-engineered stairway of rocks.

Having survived that ordeal, we headed to Lake Placid, where we will spend the next two nights.  Another hike is planned for tomorrow (if we can move in the morning). 

Islands of the Wealthy

Before our boat tour today, I thought that the "1000 Islands," which crowd the upper St. Lawrence Seaway, were mostly undeveloped, a scenic natural landscape that is also used for human recreation.  In fact, almost all of the islands and islets (which actually number more than 1800) are privately owned and inhabited.

The tour proved to be a study in human greed, development and ingenuity, including elaborate means of dealing with utilities.  Sure, a wide variety of wildlife also reside on the islands but their welfare seems to be secondary.

As we explore this planet, our expectations are not always met.  We may be disappointed by what we discover, as I was today.  But, unless we witness the impact of human activity, we will not alter our course.  Indeed, we are now experiencing the consequences of our poor stewardship.

East of Lake Ontario

Exploring the landscape east of Lake Ontario today, we first stopped at Southwick Beach State Park, where we enjoyed a pleasant stroll along the east shore of the Lake as well as the opportunity to view a swath of dunes and wetlands (see photo).

Out next stop was at the remote Eldorado Coastal Preserve, owned and managed by The Nature Conservancy since 1969.  A one-mile walk through dense foliage took us to a beautiful inlet (photo), where a flock of cormorants lounged on a rocky spit, just offshore.

Our final destination was the western edge of the Tug Hill Plateau, which rises east of Lake Ontario.  There we hiked to the rim of a deep gulf (the New England term for a gorge), carved from the Plateau by the upper reaches of Sandy Creek.  Tomorrow we tour the "1000 Islands" at the head of the St. Lawrence River.

Nova Scotia Bound

After attending a family wedding in Cincinnati, my wife and I set off for Nova Scotia today, heading northeastward through Ohio, crossing the northwest tip of Pennsylvania and then driving eastward through New York.  There we will visit the Adirondacks and the Thousand Islands region of the St. Lawrence River and then cross northern New England.

In eastern Maine, we plan to wind up the Atlantic Coast before entering Canada.  Much of our road trip will involve a journey through southern New Brunswick, Nova Scotia, Cape Breton Island and Prince Edward Island, all new territory for me.

Our first stop was at Letchworth State Park, in western New York, which harbors "The Grand Canyon of the East."  To be more specific, this scenic gorge (see photo) was sculpted by the Genesee River as it flows NNE from northwestern Pennsylvania to Lake Ontario at Rochester.  The walls of the gorge are composed of Carboniferous and Devonian strata of the Appalachian Plateau.  Three scenic waterfalls along the Genesee also grace the Park.  More details on our road trip over the next two weeks.

Addendum: Hurricane Lee may alter our plans; stay tuned.  

Morocco's Earthquake

A magnitude 6.8 earthquake struck in the Atlas Mountains, southwest of Marrakesh, yesterday, killing more than 800 people.  The quake occurred along one of many faults within the range, which stretches northeastward from the Atlantic coast and has peaks that exceed 13,000 feet.

The Atlas Mountains initially formed as a fault-block range during the Jurassic Period, when the regional crust was thinning as Pangea continued to rift apart.  Later, early in the Cenozoic Era (about 65 million years ago), additional. uplift was produced by the collision of the African and Eurasian Plates.

While these mountains lie well south of that collision zone, Africa is still moving to the NNW as the Atlantic and Indian Oceans continue to open; in addition, the East African Rift is gradually splitting the Continent.  These major tectonic processes increase pressure on faults throughout Africa, producing earthquakes when they slip or rupture.

Addendum (9/11/23): The death toll has now exceeded 2800 individuals 

Blue-Winged Messengers

After waiting out dense fog in the Missouri River Valley this morning, I took a brief drive though Eagle Bluffs Conservation Area.  There I encountered the usual mix of summer residents, dominated by great blue herons and highlighted by raptors (turkey vultures, four Mississippi kites, a red-tailed hawk and a Cooper's hawk).

But of most significance were two flocks of blue-winged teal, the vanguard of the autumn waterfowl migration.  Appearing a month ahead of most migrant ducks, blue-winged teal are welcome messengers of seasonal change, especially after this excessively hot summer.

Responding to the waning daylight, most of these small, attractive ducks will winter south of our region.  While we appreciate their visit (as do the teal hunters) they cannot guarantee that cool autumn weather will arrive in their wake.  Nevertheless, the current forecast for the next ten days looks great (at least for now).  

The Power of Genes

Mention genetic traits and most of us think of a person's appearance and talents.  But the effects of one's genetic inheritance extend well beyond these relatively superficial traits.

While parental nurturing is important, primarily by creating an atmosphere in which their child's genetic traits can be fully expressed, his/her tools for succeeding in life are, in my opinion, more innate.  Genes also code for our level of intelligence, creativity, self-confidence, risk tolerance, perseverance and drive to excel.  One's social status may facilitate the process, but personal achievement is governed by internal factors.  History is replete with individuals who rose from poverty, tragedy or abuse to positions of leadership in their chosen field; by contrast, some persons, granted wealth and unlimited opportunity, fail to meet the expectations of others.

As the saying goes, we cannot choose our parents.  But their gifts, however unintentional, are what determine our ability to succeed. 

Aging & Obituaries

As we advance into "old age," we pay more attention to the obituary page than we did during our younger years.  After all, we might grace those listings in the not-too-distant future.

Of course, we also "know" many of the individuals in those obituaries, whether they were neighbors or international celebrities.  We are members of the same generation, having witnessed the same world events, cultural shifts and social upheavals during our lives.  Their deaths are a personal loss, one more cog removed from the structure of our life.  We also want to know what led to their demise, thereby reassured by our own relative state of health.

Yes, this ritual of advanced age is both a recognition of our own mortality and a reflection on those who had some influence on our life, good or bad.  While we hope to be remembered as well, we are in no hurry to join their ranks.

 

Canadian Travel Warning

Canada, our good neighbor to the north, has issued a travel advisory to its citizens.  One might think this is related to the ongoing wildfires but that is not the case.

Rather, Canada is warning members of its LGBTQ community that it may not be safe to travel to the United States.  America, Land of the Free, has demonstrated hostility toward LGBTQ persons in many regions of the country.  Indeed, one might wonder if there are any areas that are truly safe.

Of course, Canada should also advise persons of color and non-Christians to be cautious in the U.S.   Thanks to The Religious Right, White Supremacists and the Gun Lobby, public safety is no longer guaranteed for many of our citizens.