Friday, August 30, 2019

Dorian Gains Strength

Hurricane Dorian, churning toward the Northern Bahamas and the Atlantic Coast of Florida, has strengthened to a Category 4 storm this evening, with maximum sustained winds of 130 mph.  Though still far from the Florida Peninsula, there are no atmospheric or oceanic features that suggest weakening of the hurricane will occur.

Indeed, a low pressure zone to its southwest has backed away, reducing the risk of significant wind shear and the storm will soon enter warmer waters as it reaches the Bahamas and the Gulf Stream.  The only remaining question is whether the high pressure ridge to its north will shift eastward, allowing the hurricane to curve northward before it makes landfall in Florida.  Even so, a powerful storm moving parallel to the coast will likely produce devastating storm surge, beach erosion and inland flooding.

Mandatory evacuations have already been ordered for low-lying areas of Brevard County, Florida, and many similar proclamations are expected in the days ahead.  Once again, climate change may be playing a role in both the hurricane's intensity and its coastal effects, as ocean temperatures increase and sea levels rise.  Followup posts are anticipated over the coming week.

Wednesday, August 28, 2019

Magellan's Mixed Legacy

Ferdinand Magellan was certainly a courageous individual and an exceptional navigator, having crossed the Atlantic, maneuvered through a dangerous, unmapped strait and rallied his crew as they spent months on an unknown ocean (the Pacific), dying off from malnutrition and scurvy.  Then again, he took on slaves, ordered the slaughter of many native villagers and left two mutineers on a small, uninhabited island.

And just as his goal was about to be realized, having received a warm welcome from natives in the Philippines, he attacks a king and his tribe who refused to convert to Catholicism; Magellan was killed in that battle and his remains were never recovered.  In more stark terms, Magellan survived nineteen months at sea, often under trying conditions and in uncharted waters, to die on a beach in the Philippines during a battle of his own making.

Of course, Magellan's journey began not long after the Spanish Inquisition, when religious fervor was at a peak.  But here was a man who undertook a treacherous circumnavigation of our planet based on the leading scientific assessments of his day only to succumb to religious mysticism.  On both counts he taught humanity a great deal.

See the previous three posts for details, all taken from Over the Edge of the World, by Laurence Bergreen 

Tuesday, August 27, 2019

Crossing the Great Ocean

It took Magellan's crew a full month to negotiate the straight that would come to bear his name.  Strong currents, fog, a tortuous course, dangerous rocky outcrops and shifting gales slowed progress and a mutiny on the San Antonio, the main supply ship, cut the fleet to three boats by the time they entered the Pacific in late November, 1520.

Having no concept of the great distance that still lie ahead, Magellan sailed northward, paralleling the coast of South America as far as present-day Santiago, Chile.  Then angling to the WNW, his ships caught the trade winds and enjoyed pleasant weather for the next three months.  Unfortunately, since maps of the Pacific had not yet been created by Europeans, the fleet could not "island hop" to restore supplies; malnutrition and scurvy took a significant toll on the crew before they finally reached Guam in early March, 1521.  There they encountered friendly natives whom they managed to mistreat and kill despite receiving life-saving food and water.

By mid March, the fleet reached the Philippines, having crossed the Pacific Ocean in three and a half months.  Today, we know that their goal of reaching the Spice Islands (Indonesia) was nearly realized but, in 1521, with no maps of Southeast Asia available, Magellan and his crew were as lost as they were at the Strait.

Note:  As mentioned in the last two posts, these brief summaries are taken from Over the Edge of the World, by Laurence Bergreen.  Interested readers are encouraged to obtain that highly-detailed but easily read account of Magellan's Journey.

See also: Polynesian Migration  for perspective on pre-European colonization of the Western Pacific.

Monday, August 26, 2019

Searching for the Strait

Twenty-five years before Magellan's voyage, much of Eurasia and Africa had been mapped but exploration of the seas and their unknown lands awaited.  Since Portuguese and Spanish mariners dominated that exploration, Pope Alexander VI arbitrarily drew a line from pole to pole that cut through eastern Brazil (then yet discovered), declaring that Portugal could claim lands east of that line and Spain had rights to lands to its west.  Of course, Columbus had claimed Caribbean islands for Spain on his voyages in the late 15th Century and Portuguese mariners would discover the Brazilian Coast soon thereafter (in 1500 AD).

When Magellan's armada stopped in the Canary Islands to take on more supplies, he learned that the King of Portugal had sent a fleet to arrest him and disrupt his search for a western route to the Spice Islands (Indonesia).  Magellan thus left early and avoided the established route to Brazil, sailing far down the African Coast before crossing the Atlantic; though he outwitted his Portuguese pursuers, the voyage was much longer than expected, fueling discontent among his crew.

Finally reaching Rio de Janeiro in late December (4 months after leaving Seville), Magellan's fleet worked their way down the South American Coast, dealing with storms, dangerous shoals and both friendly and hostile native tribes.  An Easter Mutiny was aborted but one ship, the Santiago, was lost in a storm (though most of the crew survived).  Large bays along the Argentinian Coast were explored and sounded, hoping that they might be the Strait to the Spice Islands, but no such strait was found.  After waiting out the Southern winter in Port St. Julian Bay, the remaining four ships reached the eastern entrance to the Strait of Magellan on October 21, 1520, 14 months after leaving Seville.

Note:  Most of this information was taken from Over the Edge of the World, by Laurence Bergreen, a detailed yet highly readable account of Magellan's voyage.  See previous post.

Sunday, August 25, 2019

Sailing with Magellan

Attending a used book sale last week, my wife bought Over the Edge of the World, by Laurence Bergreen, which documents "Magellan's Terrifying Circumnavigation of the Globe."  She thought I might enjoy the book and, as usual, she was right.  Ironically, Magellan, his 260 man crew and their five ships set off from Seville, Spain, 500 years ago this month!

Portuguese by birth, Magellan came of age during the Golden Age of Portuguese navigation, when Vasco de Gama and other mariners established trade routes to the Spice Islands (Indonesia) by sailing along the southern coasts of Africa and Asia.  Convinced that he could reach that same destination by heading west (but denied funding by Portugal), Magellan turned to the King of Spain to sponsor his voyage, promising to return within two years with untold riches from the Spice Islands.

Three years later, a handful of the original crew members and only one ship (the Victoria) limped back to the Spanish Coast, devoid of riches but having proved, for the first time, that our home planet is indeed a globe.  Highlights of Magellan's expedition (all from Bergreen's account), will be offered in coming posts.  Having read the first few chapters to date, I highly recommend the book.

Saturday, August 24, 2019

Pumpkin Seed Dormancy

This year, following a cool, wet spring and a hot, dry summer, a pumpkin plant appeared on our Littleton, Colorado, farm.  Not a surprising event, one might think, but we have not planted pumpkins here for at least 23 years!

The lone plant is growing in an area where we once had a pumpkin patch and is clearly the product of a long dormant seed.  While most pumpkin seeds germinate easily, given proper conditions, this one remained dormant for either exogenous or endogenous reasons; the former refers to inadequate moisture, heat or nutrients (or an unusually dense seed coat that did not allow essential ingredients to reach the seed embryo) while the latter indicates abnormalities or inhibitors within the embryo itself.   This year, proper conditions and a receptive seed led to germination.

Seed dormancy is common in the plant world, preventing germination when environmental conditions do not favor survival or when over-crowding would result if all seeds germinated.  Dormant seeds that are hundreds or even thousands of years old have been discovered in nature but our 23+ year-old pumpkin plant is impressive enough for me!

Friday, August 23, 2019

Impeach the Chosen One!

The time has come for Congress (Democrats and Republicans alike) to admit that we cannot risk another 16 months of a Trump Presidency.  Now describing himself as "The Chosen One," our Dear Leader is shifting his policies on a daily basis, having forced out most of his competent advisors and Cabinet Members.

Never mind the findings of the Mueller Investigation; this failed businessman is incapable of running our government and his extreme narcissism affects his approach to every issue.  Destroying the legacy of President Obama seems to be his only consistent goal.

Slashing environmental regulations, offending Allies, threatening our economy and healthcare, trashing our Intelligence Agencies, ridiculing our free press, fomenting racism and aligning himself with foreign dictators are his only "achievements."  Our Democracy is under assault by this disturbed bigot and it is time for Impeachment, based primarily on his incompetence, racism, un-American behavior and mental instability. 

Thursday, August 22, 2019

The Nisqually River

One of the many landscape features that I observed during our flight from Seattle to Denver last week was the delta of the Nisqually River, at the southernmost end of Puget Sound.  This relatively untouched ecosystem of freshwater wetlands and tidal marshes is protected within the Nisqually National Wildlife Refuge.  The River itself is named for the Nisqually Tribe that had settled near its mouth long before the arrival of European explorers.

The Nisqually River rises from the Nisqually Glacier on the south flank of Mt. Ranier, gathering numerous tributaries from that massive stratovolcano as it descends toward the Columbia River Valley.  Before reaching that watershed, it curves westward and then northwestward, passing through Alder Lake en route to Puget Sound, east of Olympia.

Far from the longest or largest river in Washington, the Nisqually nevertheless connects the State's highest peak (14,410 feet) with one of its more pristine tidal wetlands; within a distance of 80 miles, the river passes through the varied life zones of the Pacific Northwest.

Wednesday, August 21, 2019

Pacific Ranges of British Columbia

On our flight from Ketchikan to Seattle last week, we crossed over an area of British Columbia with spectacular ranges, massive ice sheets, glaciers and tortuous fjords.  This was the Pacific Ranges Province of the Coastal Mountains of North America, the southernmost in British Columbia.

Harboring Mt. Waddington (13,186 feet), the highest summit in British Columbia, and four Temperate Zone Ice Sheets (the largest on the planet), it is a beautiful landscape created by tectonic collision, subduction volcanism, glacial erosion, copious precipitation and the interaction of land and sea.  A maze of rivers and inlets dissect the terrain, best appreciated from an aircraft.

Sparsely populated, the Pacific Ranges Province, extending northwestward from Vancouver, is actually comprised of thirteen primary mountain ranges and almost as many subranges.  It is bounded on the east by the Interior Plateau of British Columbia and, on the west, by the numerous islands and channels of the Inside Passage.

Monday, August 19, 2019

A Skunk at Dusk

After delaying yard work to avoid the afternoon heat, I was returning to the house last evening as dusk deepened across our Littleton farm.  Passing a shrub row, I caught sight of a striped skunk at the last minute, its tail already raised in self-defense.

Avoided by humans and most predators due to their noxious spray, these common suburban residents are also known to carry rabies; indeed, there has been an epidemic of skunk-borne rabies in southwest Denver in recent years.  Fortunately, this skunk was not aggressive and did not demonstrate any unusual behavior; nevertheless, I gave it a wide berth as I headed for the house.

Usually seen alone except when females have young in tow, striped skunks are omnivores, favoring insects but also consuming young rodents, eggs, berries and various crops.  Great horned owls are one of the few predators unfazed by their odiferous and irritating spray.  While interesting to observe at a distance, last evening's visitor was a bit too close for comfort.  

Sunday, August 18, 2019

The Nature of Adventure

Having just returned from my first trip to Alaska, I found it to be every bit the adventure I had expected.  On the other hand, adventure need not be a journey to a distant or exotic location.

In my mind, the adventures in our life may be physical, mental or emotional.  Physical adventures are the opportunity to explore new landscape, whether it be a far-off land, an unvisited city or a nature preserve just down the road.  Novice birders and naturalists understand this point of view since every outing is an adventure, replete with new and unexpected sightings; adventure often unfolds in our own backyard.

While the word adventure is most often associated with travel, I suggest that it also applies to one's willingness to take on a new job, learn a new skill, risk a new relationship or rethink the "truths" implanted in our innocent, childhood brains.  In all cases, the courage to make the journey is essential and the rewards of discovery far exceed original expectations; adventure is a process.

Saturday, August 17, 2019

Counting on the Monsoon

As a summer heat wave continues along the Colorado Front Range, many of us are counting on the Southwest Monsoon to break this stagnant weather pattern.  After all, the monsoon usually reaches the Front Range by mid August, bringing cooler conditions and daily episodes of precipitation.

This year, a persistent high pressure dome over the Four Corners region is blocking the inflow of moisture from the Gulf of Mexico and the Sea of Cortez; until that dome breaks down or moves eastward, the monsoon cannot develop.  Recent extreme heat in Phoenix and Las Vegas reflect that "blocking high" and we are expected to approach 100 degrees F in Denver within the next few days.

While this Southwest heat wave is related more to a persistent atmospheric ridge than to global warming, one suspects that climate change will disrupt seasonal patterns across the planet.  For now, we're just counting on a normal, if tardy, late summer monsoon.

Friday, August 16, 2019

Above the Cascades & Great Basin

Flying back to Denver, yesterday, we changed planes in Seattle.  On that second flight, we took off to the south, soon passing the massive bulk of Mt. Ranier, to our east.  Curving southeastward, we then caught sight of the remnant cone of Mt. St. Helens to our southwest and, within a few minutes, flew over the snowy crest of Mt. Adams.  Next came the distinctive form of Mt. Hood, across the Columbia River Valley, and other prominent summits farther south; unfortunately, haze obscured the distant horizon and I was unable to locate Mt. Shasta, in Northern California.

Having formed over the past 36 million years, as the Farallon and its remnant Juan de Fuca Plate have been subducting beneath the North American Plate, the Cascades stretch from west-central Washington to Northern California and continue to form today.  Indeed, many Cascade volcanoes have developed and eroded (or exploded) away during that time and the prominent volcanic peaks mentioned above are less than 2 million years old; the eruption of Mt. St. Helens, in 1980, was a clear indication that the range is still evolving.

East of the Cascades, is the high, dry desert of the Great Basin, stretching from eastern Oregon and California across Nevada, southernmost Idaho and western Utah.  Fault-block ranges, running north to south, are separated by broad valleys which harbor sage grasslands, seasonal rivers, sinks, ephemeral lakes and a few large saline lakes. Unfortunately, clouds obscured the mountains of Utah and Colorado until we crossed the Front Range above Rocky Mountain National Park and descended into Metro Denver.

Thursday, August 15, 2019

Totem Bight State Park

Ten miles north of Ketchikan, Totem Bight State Park sits on the east bank of the Tongass Narrows.  First established in 1938 to reconstruct totem poles and a clan house characteristic of the Tlingit and Haida cultures, the site was then known as Mud Bight (referring to a natural indentation in the bank of the waterway).

Today, a short trail leads through a woodland and past 14 totem poles, most of which overlook the Narrows.  The Clan House is open to visitors, as is a Restoration Building, where poles are carved or repaired.  A brochure explains the symbolism represented on the poles and guided tours are offered.  In one area, damaged or corroded poles are left to rot on the ground in keeping with the Native Peoples tradition of recycling life from the old to the new.

Since evolving in Africa some 140,000 years ago, we humans have colonized most regions of the globe.  Part of nature, we cannot fully understand her ecosystems without learning about the roles we have played.  Totem Bight State Park offers some interesting insight in that regard, especially as it pertains to the Pacific Northwest.

Wednesday, August 14, 2019

Ward Lake

On the north side of Ketchikan, not far from the cruise ship crowds, Ward Creek tumbles down through a glacial valley, headed for the Tongass Narrows.  Gathering the outflow of several glacial lakes along the way, it eventually flows through Ward Lake before beginning its final stretch to the sea.

Surrounded by a rich Temperate Rainforest of western cedar and hemlock and hosting rustic shelters built by the Civilian Conservation Corps, Ward Lake is encircled by a pleasant, well-engineered trail.  Educational plaques, spaced along the route, introduce visitors to the ecology of the valley and fine wooden bridges ford the creek and its tributaries.  Though a campgrounds borders the lake, we encountered less than a dozen fellow hikers on our two-mile circuit.

In this land of spectacular scenery and untamed wilderness, relative solitude and tranquility are never far away.  While those de-boarding the cruise ships head for craft shops, historic sites, tour buses and taverns, those of us interested in the landscape and wildlife have endless places to explore, often quite close to town.

Tuesday, August 13, 2019

Misty Fjords National Monument

On this mild, sunny morning in Southeast Alaska, we took a cruise from Ketchikan to Misty Fjords National Monument.  Established in 1978 by the Carter Administration, this refuge protects two steep-walled fjords and their numerous coves within 2 million acres of the Tongass National Forest along the western edge of the North American mainland.

These fjords feed into Behm Canal, a broad channel that borders the northern and eastern sides of Revillagigedo Island.  Known for their spectacular landscape, scenic waterfalls and sea bird rookeries, Rudyerd and Smeaton Bays (the two primary fjords) are accessed by boat or float plane.  While it was a bit late in the summer for peak activity at the rookeries, I did observe a fair number of pigeon guillemots and glaucous-winged gulls on the cliffs and bald eagles were common along the waterways.  Brown and black bears, wolves and Sitka deer are among other wildlife that inhabit the Monument.

Also of interest was New Eddystone Rock, rising in the middle of Behm Canal near the entrance to Rudyerd Bay.  Named by the British explorer, Captain George Vancouver, in 1793, this erosional remnant of volcanic basalt towers above a small island where a dozen or so harbor seals lounged in the mid-morning sun.  Though hump-backed whales often visit Behm Canal during the warmer months, none were observed today. 

Monday, August 12, 2019

To Margaret Bay

Ketchikan spreads along the southwest coast of Revillagigedo Island but most of the island is uninhabited.  Today, we enjoyed a boat ride to Margaret Bay, one of several that indent the northwest coast of Revillagigedo.

The purpose was to set a couple of crab traps in Traitor's Cove and to take a hike to a bear-watching site in the Margaret Creek Valley; the latter is managed by the National Forest Service.  A two-mile, roundtrip hike takes visitors to an overlook blind above the creek, where black bear fish for spawning salmon.  During our stay, we were fortunate to observe two young bears, fishing at a waterfall along the creek.

The trapping effort produced one Dungeness crab and we stopped to check several shrimp traps on our way back to Ketchikan; those traps were highly productive though an octopus and several large starfish had eaten some of the catch.  Beyond these highlights, the trip provided spectacular views of the waterways, mountainous islands and rugged peninsulas north of Ketchikan; our thanks to Steve and Gary for the seven-hour tour.

Sunday, August 11, 2019

Lunch Creek Trail

At the north end of the Tongass Highway, the only major road through Ketchikan, is a small parking area that provides access to the Lunch Creek Trail.  The latter, winding through rich Pacific rainforest, soon reaches Lunch Creek Falls and then follows the stream down to a scenic bay.

Far from the cruise ships and the tourist throngs in downtown Ketchikan, the rocky beach offers spectacular views of distant islands and their forested mountains, rising above the cold blue water.  We enjoyed a peaceful visit for an hour or so, disturbed only by an occasional fishing boat or float plane; indeed, even the wildlife was relatively scarce, represented by a lone ruddy duck and a flock of black scoters.

This was the Alaska that I had pictured in my mind's eye before flying up from Seattle: tranquility, solitude and an abundance of natural beauty; my thanks to Patty and Sam for their hospitality and for directing us to this beautiful and inspiring refuge.  More excursions are planned over the next few days.

Saturday, August 10, 2019

Northwest to Ketchikan

Escaping the latest heat wave along the Colorado Front Range, my wife and I will be visiting friends in Ketchikan, Alaska, over the next several days.  There we will enjoy afternoon highs in the 60s (F) and overnight lows in the 50s; of course, rain showers are also in the forecast, as one might expect in Southeast Alaska.

As I discussed in Alaska's Collage of Terranes, most of the State is a mosaic of exotic terranes and volcanic island arcs, later molded by glaciers, earthquakes, volcanic eruptions, torrents of meltwater and fluctuating sea levels.  Ketchikan sits in the Gravina Belt, composed of mid Jurassic to early Cenozoic volcanic rocks, sandwiched between the Alexander Terrane, to the west, and the Stikine Terrane, to the east.  The Alexander Terrane is especially interesting; its Silurian and Devonian strata and their cargo of fossils indicate that it was torn away from Siberia as the Northern Pacific opened.  The Stikine Terrane, on the other hand, formed as a volcanic island arc from the late Paleozoic Era into the early Mesozoic.

Today, Ketchikan, sitting on the Inside Passage, is a cruise ship port during the summer months.  Having limited time for our journey, we will be flying from Denver (with a plane change in Seattle).  More on our adventure in upcoming posts.

Friday, August 9, 2019

Truth Teller

Last evening, my wife and I had the pleasure to attend Billy Joel's concert at Coors Field, in Denver.  Joining a sold-out crowd, we were treated to an energetic performance for more than two hours.

Like most creative artists (and most humans for that matter), Joel has certainly endured painful episodes in his life; however, he has been especially successful at baring those experiences, and the emotions that they provoke, through his music.  Insightful and, at times, brutally honest, he addresses human nature, social injustice and human relationships with little sentimentality and no mysticism.

Long a fan, it was an honor to see this renowned songwriter and to listen to his music in person, even at such a large venue.  The weather, despite an alarming forecast, cooperated and Joel's stamina, given his age and the altitude, was remarkable.  Most of all, I appreciated his humor, his thought-provoking lyrics and his no-nonsense take on humanity. 

Monday, August 5, 2019

Domestic Terrorism in America

As Domestic Terrorism in the United States continues to increase, almost solely fostered by White Nationalism, the government has failed to enact specific laws to fight this scourge and our President continues to fuel racist and anti-immigrant fervor.

Of course, the Republican-controlled Senate, stymied by Mitch McConnell, has not taken up bills related to reasonable gun control and cannot muster the backbone to oppose Trump's racist rhetoric.  The FBI has made it clear that Domestic Terrorism has become a greater threat to the welfare of Americans than ongoing International Terrorism; indeed, individuals of many races and creeds are often caught up in the violence directed at specific racial or religious groups.

Repeatedly asking constituents to pray for the victims of domestic terror is an empty political ploy.  Hopefully, the 2020 elections will favor those candidates who are willing to directly face and solve these threats from those who fear the NRA and Trump's constituents.  The great majority of Americans, Republicans and gun owners favor universal background checks and other common-sense means to end mass shootings and the relentless gun violence in America; it is time for the Senate to rebuke our racist President and to take an effective stance against Domestic Terrorism.

Sunday, August 4, 2019

Noisy Offspring

Summer is the season when newly fledged birds follow their parents through their territory, loudly begging for attention and food.  Anyone who is attuned to nature's cycles is familiar with this annual and sometimes annoying behavior.

Over the past week, young chickadees, house wrens, house finches and a lone Cooper's hawk have exhibited this noisy begging on our Littleton farm, no doubt stressing their parents and (to a limited degree) myself as well.  Kudos to the young spotted towhee (the first to be born on our farm; see Towhee Romance) who seems to be perfectly capable of finding his/her own food.

In some ways, it is reassuring to know that our avian neighbors put up with demanding children just as we humans do; on the other hand, their duties are over within a few months!

Saturday, August 3, 2019

Crabapple Bonanza

The mild, wet spring along the Colorado Front Range has produced an abundance of crabapples on our Littleton farm.  Consumed by a wide variety of birds and mammals, the tart fruit has also been used by humans to make jam, jelly, cider and, yes, wine.

Until yesterday, I was aware that cottontails often nibbled at fallen crabapples but did not know they were such a prized component of their diet.  In the late afternoon, as thunderstorms loomed to the west, a dozen cottontails gathered beneath our largest crabapple tree, lounging in the shade and devouring the apples.  Young bunnies pushed the fruit along, nibbling at the outer pulp while adults took in the entire apple, slowly munching on the globes like cattle chewing their cud.

I suspect that my enlightenment regarding cottontails and crabapples is purely a reflection of the fruit bonanza and the ever increasing number of rabbits on our property.  I'm glad that the cottontails are enjoying the windfall but hope that the fox, hawks and owls recognize their opportunity as well!

Friday, August 2, 2019

Family Outing

While working on our Littleton farm this morning, I observed four red-tailed hawks soaring in the clear blue sky.  One was significantly larger than the other three and I suspect it was the female, leading her spouse and offspring across the South Platte Valley.

Red-tailed hawks are thought to be monogamous and their mating flights are often observed in late winter; nest building soon follows and 1-5 eggs are generally produced by early spring.  Both parents incubate and care for the young and the latter stay with them through the summer, setting out on their own by autumn.

Though red-tails may hunt while soaring, they more often stalk prey from a perch above open grasslands or weedy fields; mice, voles, cottontails, snakes and game birds are their most common prey.  This morning's flight appeared to be more of a family affair, enjoying the relatively cool air and bonding before autumn ends their brief relationship.