Friday, June 28, 2019

The Arkansas River Canyon

On my frequent road trips, I prefer to take new routes whenever possible, thereby exposing myself to new landscapes.  This morning, when returning home from Gunnison, I thus decided to continue east on U.S. 50, descending through the Arkansas River Canyon.  During all my years in Colorado, I had yet to cover that territory.

The canyon begins just east of Salida, as the Arkansas snakes its way down through the foothills before flowing out to Pueblo and then out across the Colorado Plains; the section below Parkdale cuts away from US 50 as the river enters its steep-walled gorge between Parkdale and Canon City.  Due to the size of the stream that carved it, most of the Arkansas River Canyon is wider than other Front Range canyons and I found that the scenery is especially pleasant, often extending to the snowy peaks of the Sangre de Cristo range.  While its rock formations rival those in other canyons, the descent is more gradual and there are numerous pull-offs and riverside picnic sites from which to enjoy the scenery, birdwatch or fish.  Except for a quarry at Parkdale and several small resorts along the river, the canyon is relatively free of human "development."

As mentioned above, the steep, narrow gorge section, below Parkdale, is inaccessible except by train, raft or kayak; perhaps some trails also provide access.  Unfortunately, that deep gorge, known as The Royal Gorge, has become, in my opinion, one of the most disturbing sites of natural beauty exploitation in the State, as signs and tourist traps along the lower portion of US 50 so clearly demonstrate.