Ouimet Canyon

Another spectacular natural landscape in Western Ontario is Ouimet Canyon, about an hour northeast of Thunder Bay, off Highway 17.  Steep-walled and narrow, the Canyon protects Arctic plants that were established in its chilly, shaded base during the Pleistocene Epoch (2 million to 10,000 years ago).

The Ouimet Canyon walls are composed of diabase, about 1 billion years old, that was apparently compressed and cracked by the Pleistocene glaciers, triggering an erosive process that has included the intrusion of glacial meltwater, freeze-thaw cycles and rock falls.  Of course, such gradual erosion continues today.

A fine loop trail leads visitors from the parking lot out to two overlook decks that extend beyond the Canyon walls; watch for ruffed grouse in the woodlands during your hike.  We highly recommend a visit to Ouimet Canyon Provincial Park for those traveling through this region of Ontario. 

Kakabeka Falls

Perhaps the most well known and heavily visited natural feature in Western Ontario is Kakabeka Falls on the Kaministiquia River, 24 miles west of Thunder Bay.  Dropping 130 feet in several powerful torrents, it is often referred to as the Niagara Falls of the North.

Kakabeka Falls is protected within a Provincial Park and can be viewed from boardwalks and stairways on both sides of the river.  During our brief visit this morning, my wife and I agreed that it is one of the most impressive cascades that we have had the pleasure to visit. 

The geology of Kakabeka Falls is also of interest.  A resistant capstone of chert overlies soft shale of the Gunflint Formation, 1.8 billion years old; within this shale, fossils of ancient stromatolites have been discovered.  As the shale erodes beneath the chert caprock, the latter plunges into the gorge and the waterfall slowly retreats upstream. 

Lake Superior's Northwest Coast

From Duluth, Minnesota, Route 61 winds northeastward above the northwest shore of Lake Superior, lined with overlooks, ancient basalt cliffs, resorts and State Parks.  West of the highway rise the Sawtooth Highlands (elevations about 2300 feet), ablaze with fall color this time of year (photo).  Of note, the surface of Lake Superior is 600 feet above sea level, somewhat lower than I would have expected.

About 150 miles from Duluth, Route 61 crosses the Pigeon River and enters Ontario, Canada.  From this border, the highway cuts away from the Lake and enters more open terrain, studded with massive loaves of volcanic rock; these formations are remnants of incomplete continental rifting more than one billion years ago (comparable to the Rio Grande and East African Rifts occurring in modern times).

A chain of these domes stretches west from Thunder Bay, where visitors (for a fee) can drive onto Mount McKay for a spectacular view of the city and its natural harbor. 

Land of Ancient Rock

Having visited the Upper Peninsula of Michigan on several occasions in the past, my wife and I are very familiar with the southern shore of Lake Superior.  This coming week, we will explore its northern shore, where outcrops of ancient Precambrian rocks adorn the scenery and where a string of Ontario parks and nature preserves line the coast.

The rock strata, the youngest of which formed at least 100 million years before life crawled from the sea, are best observed along roadcuts, stream valleys and lake shores and we will surely observe many of them as we travel along the northern edge of Lake Superior.

Earth formed about 4.6 billion years ago, life evolved in the sea about 3.6 billion years ago and plate tectonics is thought to have begun by 2.5 billion years ago.  Most of the rocks exposed along the North Shore of Lake Superior are 1-2 billion years old.  Of course, the Great Lakes themselves are much younger, having formed during the last glacial period of the Pleistocene Epoch, the Wisconsin Glaciation, 70-10 thousand years ago (well after humans had evolved).  See: Formation of the Great Lakes  

A Welcome Evolution at Eagle Bluffs

Arriving at Eagle Bluffs Conservation Area just after sunrise, a friend and I found that most of the floodplain was obscured by dense fog after cool air had settled in the Missouri River Valley overnight.  Fortunately, as the sun rose and the air warmed, the fog gradually diminished.

Finally able to scan the landscape, we found that water levels have increased significantly, just in time for the arrival of duck hunters later in the month.  On the other hand, few water birds had yet to take advantage of the change; only eight pied-billed grebes, five great blue herons, two American coot and a lone mallard were observed.  Clouds of red-winged blackbirds and a couple-dozen turkey vultures were the only sizable flocks.  In total, thirteen avian species were encountered during our visit.

No doubt, the rising waters will attract significant flocks of waterfowl over the next couple of months but birdwatching access will be limited once hunting begins.  Nevertheless, the sight of flowing water and expanding pools was reassuring on that desiccated floodplain. 

The Mexico-Kansas Express

Leaving Denver on this clear, cool autumn morning, I noted a dusting of snow on Mt. Blue Sky, a "Fourteener" west of the city; looking to the south, I saw that Pike's Peak was completely snow covered. This early season snow, the first along the Front Range this fall, reflects the impact of Hurricane Polo's recent moisture plume, combined with a cold front that swept in from the northwest.

More impressive were flooded fields throughout western Kansas, an area that was in a prolonged drought until it found itself in Polo's crosshairs.  Indeed, the Hurricane's swath of heavy rain passed right through that area, reaching as far northeast as Minnesota.

To encounter pools of tropical moisture across the semiarid environment of the High Plains was a clear sign that Earth's ecosystems are interconnected.  No doubt, as our climate warms, this fact will become impossible to ignore. 

A Red Fox Returns II

As I reported in the original post, A Red Fox Returns, published in August of 2020, the presence or absence of red fox on our Littleton farm has a significant impact on the cottontail population (and I suspect on the number of mice and voles as well).  Indeed, for the past six months or so, fox have been absent and the rabbits have returned, kept in check only by hawks and owls.

Late yesterday morning, a red fox sauntered across the back of our property, nose to the ground.  Since he or she had not yet grown a thick winter coat, our new resident or visitor looked like a juvenile; on the other hand, following a long, hot summer, one might expect such a svelte appearance.  Whether it is our long term female resident or a young adventurer, its decision to stay on the farm will spell trouble for the cottontails and other prey species.

One of the benefits of owning a sizable piece of property (if only three acres) is the opportunity to observe the interaction of wild residents and visitors over time, including the arrival of unexpected species.  While a balance is generally maintained in large ecosystems, smaller sanctuaries highlight the population gyrations that relate directly to the availability of food sources (whether vegetative or animal). 

Tiny Travelers II

Walking along the South Platte River early this morning, I encountered a relatively small number and variety of birds.  Almost all were common, permanent residents of the Front Range urban corridor.

A rewarding exception was the presence of two Wilson's warblers, flitting about the riverside shrubs in search of insects.  Very small and active, this species breeds and summers high in the mountains, often along alpine lakes near timberline.  The pair that I observed this morning are likely on their way to Mexico for the colder months, though some migrate only to the Gulf Coast or to southernmost California.

On this cloudy, cool morning, they seemed to be in no hurry to head south, apparently finding plenty of sustenance in the shrubbery.  I watched them from a bench for twenty minutes or so and then moved on to enjoy my own breakfast. 

Hurricane Polo floods the Southwest

One of the strongest hurricanes to ever form in the eastern Pacific, Hurricane Polo has weakened to a Category 3 storm before crossing the northern Baja Peninsula.  Nevertheless, its copious moisture has and will continue to drench the Four Corners Region.  Flash flooding is expected to occur due to the mountainous terrain, the torrential downpours and the hard, non-absorbent, desert soil.

A cold front, approaching from the northwest, will intensify the flow of moisture from Polo, sending it through the Four Corners States and across the Great Plains; the Southern Plains will receive most of the rain as moisture flows in from both the Sea of Cortez and the Gulf of Mexico.  Though that area has been in a prolonged drought, too much rain over a short period of time will flood the streams while offering limited drought relief.

Furthermore, powerful waves, spreading north from Polo, will rake the coast of Southern California, exacerbating the damage recently caused by Hurricane Marie.  Meanwhile, the Atlantic Basin remains quiet as a Super El Niño suppresses tropical development in that oceanic region. 

Medicare for All

Call it socialism if you wish but, in my opinion, all Americans deserve access to quality medical care, regardless of their income.  A universal healthcare system is in order, modified by copays or secondary insurance depending on one's level of wealth.

Indeed, the wealthy will always have the opportunity to pay for concierge medicine, top-of-the-line research centers and limited access to new therapies should they choose to do so.  We need not absolutely mimic inefficient European systems but we must restore vital services to every American.

No doubt, objections will arise from the insurance industry and, of course, from those already comfortable with their level of healthcare.  But ignoring the injustice of our current system, especially egregious when Conservative Republicans are in charge, is inexcusable. 

Journey toward the Moon

As I left  Hays, Kansas, early this morning, the bright, full, Harvest Moon gleamed high in the western sky.  Heading toward it on Interstate 70, I was soon enveloped by dense fog that obscured the surrounding landscape.  Only the road in front of me and our beautiful satellite were visible, creating the illusion that I was traveling to the moon.

By the time I reached Ogalla, Kansas, the fog was too dense for safe travel and I pulled off the highway for half an hour; the rising sun eventually warmed the air, the fog began to dissipate and I resumed my journey.  As the sunlight intensified, the brilliance of the moon faded in concert until it finally disappeared behind a distant cloud bank as I approached Oakley, Kansas.

By then, residual fog was limited to the shallow stream valleys and the combination of dry air and bright sunshine highlighted every feature of the High Plains landscape.  An early appointment tomorrow should offer another view of the Harvest Moon from our Littleton, Colorado, farm (sky conditions permitting). 

A Nor'Easter slams the Northeast

While a strong El Niño has suppressed Atlantic hurricanes this year, a potent, slow-moving Nor'Easter threatens the Northeast Coast this weekend.  Already producing coastal flooding in the Mid-Atlantic States, the storm is expected to crawl northward and intensify in the coming days.

Fifty to sixty mph winds are forecast to lash the region, accompanied by torrential rain and coastal flooding.  Long Island and southern New England appear to be at the greatest risk of storm damage though major disruption of travel and outdoor events will occur from Virginia to Maine.

Named for their strong, persistent, northeast winds, Nor'Easters are most common in late winter.  To experience one in late September is very rare, perhaps the latest sign of our warming climate. 

Celebrity & Journalism

Freedom of the press is vital to the health of our Democracy, especially when an Administration attempts to restrict its reach.  Investigative journalists are at the heart of the press corps and their reports insure that we are kept aware of political, financial and corporate maneuvering, whether that activity is positive or negative, legal or illegal.

On the other hand, TV "journalists" are essentially broadcasters.  Some may have political or corporate backgrounds but they are now engaged primarily in commentary, interviews, news reporting and, increasingly it seems, entertainment.  Most willingly accept their celebrity role, many have written books and an increasing number host their own podcasts.  More disturbing is the recent use of viewer clubs and regional gatherings to market themselves and their programming; in essence, the public is invited to become active participants in the growth of their celebrity.

It is essential that Americans understand this distinction.  Our vote must be governed by facts, not by the opinions and convictions of on-air celebrities, however closely their pontifications may match our personal philosophy. 

An Afternoon at Eagle Bluffs

Over the 29 years that I have been heading down to Eagle Bluffs Conservation Area, I do not recall visiting in the afternoon....until yesterday.  As a result, I encountered the fewest birds ever at that floodplain refuge; to be clear, the number of species (13) was not a new low but the overall number of individuals surely seemed to be.

On the other hand, the weather was especially pleasant: cloudy and mild.  Furthermore, I did observe an osprey, an adult bald eagle and a river otter among more common species of wildlife.  In addition, except for two wildlife photographers, I had the refuge all to myself for most of my two hour visit.

Once again, the water level was exceptionally low but I suspect it will recover before duck hunting season gets underway and half of the refuge is closed to birders.  After all, we cannot compete with their financial value to the Department of Conservation. 

Seasonal Change at Phillips Lake

Yesterday, on the last day of astronomical summer, there were signs of autumn at Phillips Lake in southeast Columbia.  Relatively mild air had displaced the dome of heat and a steady east breeze modified the impact of a potent September sun.

A pair of ospreys had stopped by to fish on the lake though migrant waterfowl have not yet arrived.  On the other hand, cedar waxwings have formed their large, wandering winter flocks and a trio of yellow-rumped warblers, winter residents at this latitude, scoured a lakeside tree.  Of course a wide variety of early autumn wildflowers adorned the meadows and the ripening berries of pokeweed await the avian harvest (photo).

We can only hope that the summer heat is gone for good but experience suggests otherwise.  At least the shorter days are bringing in the first messengers of autumn. 

Following the Wabash

Returning to Missouri from our brief visit to Northeast Ohio, my wife and I decided to take a new route across Indiana, avoiding the series of Interstate Highways that we have used in the past.  Heading west from Fort Wayne on U.S. 24, we soon realized that our journey was paralleling the course of the Wabash River.

After rising south of Fort Recovery, Ohio, the Wabash flows northwestward to Huntington, Indiana, where it is dammed.  Exiting that reservoir, it flows to the WSW as far as Attica, where it angles to the SSW on its way to join the Ohio River at the southwest tip of Indiana, over 500 miles from its source.  Indeed, the Wabash is the largest northern tributary of the Ohio.

On our route, from Fort Wayne to Interstate 74, we crossed the Wabash at Lewisburg (on U.S. 24), in Lafayette, just southwest of West Lafayette (on U.S. 52) and south of Covington (on I-74).   Learning that it drains most of the Hoosier State and at least a quarter of Illinois, one is impressed by the size of the Wabash River's watershed.  

Fracking in Wayne National Forest

Wayne National Forest, the only National Forest in Ohio, covers 250,000 acres in the southeast region of that State; this protected landscape, long a haven for naturalists, hikers, campers and hunters is broken into three units.

Now, as we learned during our visit to Ohio, Trump's Bureau of Land Management has sold leases on almost 3000 acres of the Forest for oil and gas exploration, including the use of fracking.  Of course, these operations will impact far more acreage than the lease zones themselves, due to the effects of road development, traffic, pollution and water requirements.

Once again, the Trump Administration is attacking as many environmental laws, refuges and protected ecosystems as possible, demonstrating their unbridled support for energy production and disdain for conservation.  They ridicule the science and consequences of climate change and bolster fossil fuel use wherever and whenever possible.   

An Offensive Gimmick

Yesterday morning, I tuned into College Game Day on ESPN just in time to watch a college student win one million dollars by kicking a field goal.  What an offensive gimmick, witnessed by football fans across the nation, many of whom work two jobs to pay their rent and feed their family, perhaps foregoing medical care to do so.

Corporate America, apparently including Disney (majority owner of ESPN), is insensitive to the outrageous economic disparity that characterizes this country.  A reward in the $100s would seem to be more appropriate.

Beyond this made-for-TV spectacle, such instant wealth encourages young people to pursue gambling, online stardom and other high risk ventures rather than more traditional and more satisfying routes to a successful career.  If Disney has money to burn, I suggest they take a more socially responsible approach to spending it.  

Wood Hollow Metro Park

On this rainy morning in Northeast Ohio, we drove over to Wood Hollow Metro Park, in Summit County.  Enticed by the promise of a 1.2 mile hike across flat terrain, we did not otherwise know what to expect.

As is often the case, we were pleasantly surprised by a well-engineered trail loop, which runs atop a fine boardwalk and several bridges to negotiate low terrain and streams throughout the mature forest.  The final portion of the route winds across a prairie ecosystem, adorned with goldenrod, ironweed, white asters and other wildflowers at this time of year.

Northeast Ohio offers a wealth of hiking opportunities, from Cuyahoga Valley National Park to small preserves such as Wood Hollow.  Always seeking new areas to explore, we are never disappointed.