Golden-Crowned Kinglet

Yesterday afternoon, I observed a golden-crowned kinglet in our Columbia, Missouri, yard, feeding with chickadees and tufted titmice.  Having summered and bred in coniferous forest across Canada and southward through the mountain ranges of North America, these tiny songbirds winter throughout most of the Continent.

Since they are best found in conifer groves, I have rarely encountered them in our primarily deciduous neighborhood.  Like their ruby-crowned cousins, these kinglets feed almost exclusively on insects, spiders and their eggs, flitting about trees and shrubs to explore every crevice.

I doubt this hardy visitor will settle here for the winter but he is certainly welcome to do so.  His energy and cold tolerance are inspiring and natural insect control is a valuable service.

The Annual Unveiling

While almost everyone appreciates the colorful leaves of October, birders also look forward to their demise.  Once the leaves dry up and fall to the ground, the tree limbs are bare for the first time since mid April.

This annual unveiling makes birding easier, removing the dense cover into which birds often disappear.  Though some birders are adept at identifying birds by their song, many are less experienced or less skilled and rely almost exclusively on visual identification.

So, the canopies are opening up once again and, if the birds remain still long enough and you can focus your binoculars quick enough, our avian neighbors are easy to view.  Indeed, the annual unveiling is only so helpful.

Our Winter Boarders Check-In

When we left for our Southeastern journey ten days ago, our winter boarders had not yet appeared.  However, they did arrive in our absence and I have now officially welcomed their presence, granting them refuge through mid April or so.

Of course, these boarders are common winter residents: white-throated sparrows and dark-eyed juncos.  Others, such as white-crowned sparrows, fox sparrows and yellow-bellied sapsuckers, may visit on occasion but they are not regular or reliable winter occupants of our property.

As we enjoy the glorious weather of October, one does not question their interest in staying here.  But once harsh winter conditions drop south, we humans, natives of the Tropics, wonder why these small songbirds do not depart for warmer climes (as many members of our species do).  While they are not aware of that opportunity, our guests are more than satisfied with the mid-Missouri amenities and I will certainly appreciate their company on those cold, dark days ahead.

Travel & Maps

In the modern world, road maps have become passe as the use of GPS has guided every movement in our lives.  For those of us who love maps, that is a sad and unfortunate development.

When traveling, GPS addicts merely enter their destination on their phone or on their dashboard and follow the directions that they receive; the landscape and alternative routes are of little concern.  They are focused on efficiency and a broader perspective of the territory through which they move is beyond their level of interest.

Some of us cherish the opportunity to understand the topography and hydrology of the landscape.  We want to know what rivers we cross and where they are flowing.  We want to know the elevation of the mountains we encounter and what watersheds are separated by the passes that we cross.  Detailed maps offer such information and help us to understand the interconnection of ecosystems through which we travel.  Unfortunately, in this GPS era, they are increasingly difficult to find.

On to West Virginia

This morning, we climbed back onto the Appalachian Plateau, west of Harrisonburg, Virginia.  We then undulated across the hills and valleys of the Plateau, fording the upper tributaries of the Potomac River.  Our plan was to visit some of our old haunts, having completed our medical residencies at West Virginia University some 43 years ago.

Our first stop was at Spruce Knob, the highest summit in West Virginia (4863 feet).  A 12-mile, winding ascent takes visitors to a summit parking lot, where a forest of red spruce and spectacular overlooks greet the visitor.  The next destination was Seneca Rocks, about 20 miles to the north, where outcrops of Silurian sandstone loom above the Seneca Creek Valley.  Finally, after crossing the Eastern Continental Divide, we visited Blackwater Falls State Park, near Davis, where a long series of wooden steps lead down to views of the beautiful cascade.

Tomorrow we'll stop at Dolly Sods Wilderness (see Almost Canada) for the first time in four decades before heading north to stay with good friends near Morgantown (whom we met during our residency).  Overall, it will be an inspiring and nostalgic return to the Mountain State.

Shenandoah National Park

After descending back to the Ridge and Valley Province of the Appalachians, we traveled to the northeast, crossing the New River twice as it flowed toward the Ohio Valley and also crossing the James River, which flows to the Chesapeake Bay.  Our destination was Shenandoah National Park, in Virginia, which stretches for 105 miles atop a segment of the Blue Ridge Mountains.

Early this morning, fog shrouded much of the scenery but rapidly burned off in the bright October sunshine.  On our winding journey northward, we stopped for two hikes but also pulled off at dozens of overlooks that are spaced along Skyline Drive.  The scenery was spectacular but the crowds were significant, especially for a Monday in late October.

As at all National Parks, tourism is overwhelming the resources and stressing the natural ecosystem; the central road, overlooks, trails and visitor centers were all heavily congested.  Furthermore, as scenic as the Park may be, there is little variety over the course of the day-long journey and wildlife viewing is almost nonexistent due to the widespread human activity.  When it comes to experiencing nature, I'll take a secluded, unheralded refuge over a National Park any day.

Into the Blue Ridge

Entering the Blue Ridge Mountains south of Elizabethton, Tennessee, we ascended along the Doe River, following its channel into Roan Mountain State Park and beyond to the high peaks that surround Roan Mountain.  On this chilly morning, frost and light snow coated the summits, most of which exceed 5500 feet in elevation.

Our next stop was Elk River Falls, just south of the North Carolina line.  This river is part of the Tennessee River watershed and its scenic falls, east of Elk Park, is reached by a short hike.  From this beautiful cascade, we moved on to Grandfather Mountain State Park, advertised to be the most popular tourist destination in the State; that claim was confirmed when we found a long line of cars at the entrance and learned from a road sign that visits to the Park must now be scheduled in advance (yet another indication that we are loving our Parks to death).

Diverting to the Blue Ridge Parkway, we enjoyed a short loop hike to Flat Rock and stopped at several spectacular overlooks as we traveled eastward.  Throngs of tourists crowded most of the viewpoints, apparently drawn to the Parkway by the brilliant autumn colors; solitude was not an option on this cool afternoon.  We will be attending a cultural festival near Ferguson, North Carolina, over the coming days before resuming our travels along the Blue Ridge. 

Through the Ridge & Valley Province

After hiking at Fall Creek Falls State Park and the Obed Wild & Scenic River Preserve (both of which I recommend) we headed east and dropped from the Appalachian Plateau, entering the Ridge and Valley Province of  the Appalachians.

As its name implies, this middle Province is characterized by parallel ranges (relatively low in elevation) that are separated by stream or river valleys, all of which (in Tennessee) eventually drain into the Tennessee River.  Indeed, as we drove eastward and then northeastward through the Province, we crossed the Clinch and Holston Rivers, two of the larger tributaries.

Nearing Knoxville, we could see the Great Smoky Mountains to the southeast; these well-known mountains anchor the Blue Ridge Range, the easternmost Province of the Appalachians, which rises across northern Georgia, northwestern South Carolina, southeastern Tennessee, western North Carolina, Virginia, Maryland and southern Pennsylvania.  Tomorrow, after a night in Johnson City, we begin our exploration of that Range.

October Scenery

On our drive from Missouri to Tennessee today, all of the cities, towns and homesteads were beautiful and the varied landscapes were spectacular.  Sponsoring this delightful scenery was the month of October, offering its brilliant sunshine, clear, cool air and colorful foliage.

In addition to the autumn splendor we encountered other sightings that made the road trip especially pleasant.  Among these were five major river crossings (Missouri, Mississippi, Ohio, Tennessee and Cumberland Rivers), plenty of rustic barns, placid livestock (free of summer insects), hundreds of turkey vultures soaring in the deep blue skies and a lone osprey hunting on Rend Lake (in southern Illinois).

We climbed onto the Appalachian Plateau (locally known as the Cumberland Plateau) east of Nashville and will spend the night in Crossville, Tennessee.  Hiking and more travel in the coming days.

Miffed at Eagle Bluffs

Visiting Eagle Bluffs Conservation Area this morning, a friend and I were shocked to find that the southern half of the refuge is already closed for the protection of wintering waterfowl and for duck hunting (quite a combination).  The closure is two weeks earlier than in past years and we were more than disappointed by the decision.

While there may be a rational explanation for the limited access, it has occurred in a year when the autumn waterfowl migration has been especially sluggish.  During our brief and restricted tour this morning, we encountered only 55 Canada geese, 30 blue-winged teal, 10 mallards and 10 pied-billed grebes on the floodplain refuge; an overhead flock of greater white-fronted geese was also observed.

I certainly respect the right of the Department of Conservation to determine appropriate seasonal access but wonder if funding from hunting licenses and from hunting organizations has had undue influence.  Eagle Bluffs is one of the most popular birding locations in the State (and in the Midwest); one would hope that this plays into their decisions as well.

The Republicans' Candidate

Of all the despicable things that have been said or done by Trump and his sycophants over the past six years, encouraging Herschel Walker to run for the Senate is one of the most disturbing.  Having implied that blacks are not capable of running corporations, professional sports teams and governments for many decades, Conservative, racist white men are now taking advantage of an unqualified black man who happens to be a celebrity.

Hoping that he will appeal to both Conservative and black voters, Mr. Walker has been forced into the National spotlight, exposing his many lies and embellishments.  Of course, the Republicans are daring Democrats to suggest that a black man is not capable of being a Senator (even though Walker is running against an incumbent black Senator).  Should he win, Mr. Walker will be a puppet for the Republican agenda, advised to vote on issues as instructed by his white superiors.

Of course, should he lose, Mr. Walker's deficiencies will be used to reinforce their long-held image of African Americans.  Racism is expressed by keeping qualified individuals out of positions that they deserve or by encouraging unqualified candidates to represent their race. 

A Zoo at the Zoo

Since my appointment was delayed in St. Louis today, I decided to visit the city's famous zoo (which also happens to be free).  During my childhood and early adult years, I enjoyed visiting zoos; at this point, I am more ambivalent about their role, though they surely entertain and educate children and, it is reported, support research and conservation projects across the globe.

This morning, dozens of school busses and thousands of cars occupied every parking space within a mile of the entrances and I decided not to immerse myself in that sea of humanity.  I'm sure the humans outnumbered the resident animals by a factor of ten (if not more).  Just another sign that we have overwhelmed the resources of our planet.

As an alternative, I took a pleasant walk through the John F. Kennedy Memorial Forest and visited the St. Louis Art Museum (also free), a short distance north of the zoo.  Fortunately (and sadly) the museum was  far from crowded (though adjacent parking spaces were filled by zoo patrons).

First Migrant Geese of the Season

Despite the sluggish autumn waterfowl migration in central Missouri, I was fortunate to encounter about 60 greater white-fronted geese this morning.  Ironically, I had just returned from a rather unremarkable birding excursion when the geese passed over our house, flying northwest to southeast.

No doubt, they were catching tail winds provided by the most recent storm system that is moving from the Northern Plains to the Great Lakes region.  These geese, having summered and bred in Alaska or Northwest Canada, are heading for the Lower Mississippi River Valley or the Western Gulf Coast where they will spend the winter.  They are common spring (February-March) and fall migrants here in central Missouri.

The expansion of crop fields has benefited both snow geese and greater white-fronted geese (not to mention Canada geese).  The abundance of waste grain offers a reliable source of nutrition during their long migrations and has actually expanded their winter range northward, into the central Mississippi Valley and across the Southern Plains.

Addendum:  Flocks of snow geese were also reported over Columbia on this day.

October Rain

While October in the Heartland is generally characterized by sunny, dry, cool weather, rain is falling across most of Missouri this morning.  The culprits are a high pressure dome over the Southeast and a low pressure center over South Dakota.

These atmospheric factors are combining to draw a "river" of warm, humid air from the Gulf of Mexico into the Central U.S.  Steady rain is expected through the day and, due to the persistent dome to our southeast, it is likely to continue through tomorrow afternoon.

Though many of us relish more typical October conditions, the rain is welcome in this region where a persistent drought has stressed the vegetation and dried up many of our streams.  Yet, one is tempted to wonder if global warming is fueling a gradual shift in the nature of our seasons. 

Birding a Country Road

Though I recently wrote about the hazards of birding along country roads (see Eating Dust in the Country), I have discovered one that receives limited traffic.  Since it parallels a paved highway east of Columbia, most commuters use that route and the dirt-gravel lane is reserved for locals (and birders).  Furthermore, this road passes an excellent mix of natural habitat and offers broad views of the sky and surrounding countryside.

On this sunny, cool morning, I encountered a decent variety of birds along that country road.  Most abundant were cedar waxwings, blue jays, eastern bluebirds and mourning doves; raptors were represented by a sharp-shinned hawk and a trio of kestrels. As the season progresses, this will be an excellent destination for observing migrant snow geese and both the number and variety of raptors will increase during the colder months (including bald eagles and short-eared owls).

For now, I'll enjoy the tranquility, the colorful foliage and the pleasing mix of country wildlife that turn up along the road.  I'm in no hurry for October to end.

Grackle Palooza

Stopping for gas in Colby, Kansas, this afternoon, I encountered a massive flock of great-tailed grackles that had taken over the property of a local motel.  Covering the lawns and much of the roof, the grackles were also sitting on cars and the surrounding areas of pavement.  It looked like a scene from a Stephen King novel.

Increasingly common across the Great Plains and Desert Southwest, great-tailed grackles are routinely observed at rest stops.  Come autumn, they gather in massive flocks, improving their search for food and diminishing their risk of predation.  Like most other blackbirds, they are omnivorous, consuming insects, seeds, waste grain, berries and human "handouts."  Today's flock easily exceeded a thousand individuals; they may have been drawn to the site by stunned insects since a cold front just dropped through the Front Range and Great Plains.

Even though we tend to dismiss "blackbirds" when it comes to birdwatching and nature study, they play an important role, especially with regard to insect control.  Whether one appreciates or despises grackles, today's gathering was quite a spectacle.

  

Cranes in the Evening

While visiting family in the higher terrain of south Metro Denver last evening, we went outside to walk the dogs.  Spotted towhees, scrub jays and black-billed magpies were calling from the wooded ravines but my attention was drawn skyward when I heard the distinctive bugling of sandhill cranes.

Difficult to locate at first, I finally saw them, a large V of sixty or more cranes; since they generally travel at a high altitude, these hardy migrants are often heard before they are seen.  Last evening's flock was likely heading for West Texas or New Mexico though some winter as far south as Mexico.

Whatever their destination, it is always a thrill to witness their journey and October is usually the best month to catch their autumn migration.  Of course, being at the right place at the right time also helps.

Crossing a Cold Front

As I mentioned in yesterday's post, summer-like interludes in October rarely last long on the Great Plains.  When I left Hays, Kansas, this morning, a band of dark clouds stretched across the western horizon, a sign of change to come.

Showers developed east of WaKeeney, followed by steady rain for the next twenty miles.  By the time I reached Park, Kansas, the skies were clearing and the wind had shifted from the north, dropping the temperature to 50 degrees F.  I had crossed a cold front of a storm centered in southeastern South Dakota; its trailing cold front bowed southwestward through central Nebraska, western Kansas and southern Colorado.  No doubt, the rain was welcome across the dry landscape of the High Plains.

A hundred miles east of Denver, I was traveling under a deep blue sky and the air was crystal clear.  Indeed, I could see a line of cumulus clouds far to the west, forming above the high peaks of the Colorado Front Range.

 

Migrating Franklin's Gulls

Approaching the Solomon River Valley in east-central Kansas this afternoon, I encountered a large flock of Franklin's gulls, flying southward.  Over the next ten miles, I likely saw more than 500 of these agile travelers, migrating or stopping to strafe the roadside fields for grasshoppers and other insects.

Having bred in freshwater marshes across the Northern Plains, they are headed for the Pacific Coast of South America where they will spend the winter.  Today, they were fighting a strong south wind that had pushed the afternoon high into the mid 80s F.

One might wonder why they are intent on heading south when summer-like temperatures persist across the Plains.  Of course, they have a long journey ahead and the timing of their migration evolved long before global warming began to develop.  They instinctively "know" that October weather is fickle on the Great Plains and they must move on before an early winter storm decimates the prey that fuels their migration. 

Nature's Glory Days

Others may disagree but I (and I suspect most naturalists) believe that October is the pinnacle of nature's year in the Northern Hemisphere.  Mild, sunny days and clear, crisp nights are the rule and, on the heels of a long, hot summer, they invite outdoor exploration.

Of course, our wild neighbors seem to agree; invigorated by the chill, they are more active and conspicuous and, throughout the month, are joined by winter residents that filter down from the north.  Plants put on a show with their colorful foliage and their nutritious nuts and berries attract a host of wildlife.  Since the chilly nights have suppressed the insect population, we are all more comfortable as we explore the forests, prairies and wetlands.

Some may dislike the shortening daylight and dread the looming winter but nature has saved her best for last.  These are her glory days.