Cumberland Gap

Cumberland Gap, once traversed by the Indian Warrior Path, became a famous conduit for the Wilderness Road when Daniel Boone and his party entered Kentucky in 1769. Today, protected within a National Historic Park, this deep notch in Cumberland Mountain is the centerpiece of a natural area that offers a pleasing mix of history, scenery and outdoor recreation.

Nine hundred feet deep, the Gap was once thought to have been created by wind. We now know that it was carved by a stream that flowed southward to join the Powell River; in more recent times, this stream was "captured" by Yellow Creek, diverting its flow northward to the Cumberland River. Cumberland Mountain, which parallels Pine Mountain to its north, represents the barrier between the Appalachian Plateau (to its northwest) and the Ridge and Valley Province (to its southeast); the crest of this long, narrow ridge forms the border between Kentucky and Virginia northeast of the Gap.

A visitor center, in Middlesboro, Kentucky, introduces visitors to the natural and human history of the region and provides maps for hiking trails that climb onto Cumberland Mountain or run atop its summit; one of these leads to the Tristate Pavilion, at the junction of Kentucky, Virginia and Tennessee. Those less inclined or unable to hike the trails can take a short drive up to Pinnacle Overlook, just northeast of the Gap, which provides a spectacular panorama of the surrounding landscape.

Intelligence and Evolution

Until the evolution of man, all species on Earth had been confined by their physical traits. Over time, natural selection dictated the diversity of our planet, as species that adapted to the environment survived while those that could not became extinct. A species faced with a changing climate, dwindling food supply or increased competition, either evolved traits that favored its survival or succumbed to the advance of other life forms. Such events, unfolding over thousands or millions of years, allowed cetaceans to return to the sea, birds to take flight and well-insulated creatures to inhabit the colder regions of our globe.

But man, endowed with a large brain, did not have to wait for evolution to supply his needs. Intelligent enough to build shelters, control fire and create protective clothing, he spread across the continents, eventually learning to construct boats, domesticate animals and cultivate plants. His brain power would lead to scientific breakthroughs, the industrial revolution and, perhaps too late, the environmental movement. He did not need to evolve fins to cross the oceans, develop wings to fly or grow a thick fur coat to survive the winter months.

Freed from the confines of evolution, we have "conquered the globe" and, at the same time, have begun to destroy it. Whether our intelligence will finally produce a peaceful, pollution-free, self-sustaining planet is yet to be seen. Unfortunately, many cultural, religious and psychological barriers must first become extinct.

Winter Birding

Winter may not be the most pleasant time for birding but it generally brings more rare sightings than any other season. Vagrants, irruptives and weather-dependent migrants promise new life-list species for birders throughout the Heartland.

Our large reservoirs often attract rare loons (Pacific, yellow-billed, red-throated), jaegers (parasitic, pomarine), gulls (Thayer's, glaucous, lesser and greater black-backed), scoters (black, surf, white-winged), oldsquaws and Barrow's goldeneyes. Out on the grasslands, we have the chance to encounter snowy owls, common redpolls, snow buntings or longspurs. Even residential areas might attract Bohemian waxwings, crossbills or evening grosbeaks.

It is the prospect of such discoveries that draws passionate birdwatchers into the bleak landscape of a Midwestern winter. After all, these species won't hang around for those warm, spring field trips!

The Tree of Evolution

The history of life on Earth can be visualized as a massive, branching tree which germinated 3.6 billion years ago. Mediated by genes and governed by natural selection, each branch of the tree represents a new species; some of these branches never advance beyond a twig while others become thick trunks, giving rise to many more species over the eons.

Mammals branched from reptiles about 200 million years ago (MYA) and primates branched from the mammalian line some 60 MYA. Apes split from other primates at least 15 MYA and hominids diverged from the chimp line about 7 MYA. Finally, modern man evolved from ancestral hominids just 125,000 years ago. Our species would thus be represented by a short twig on the periphery of this massive tree of evolution; whether that twig will die out, persist in isolation or eventually branch into other species is a matter of speculation.

Only natural species, which include man, belong on this tree. Those domestic animals and cultivated plants that have been engineered by man are not natural; they represent some of the many ways in which humans have manipulated nature and most could not survive without man's nurturing and assistance.

The Arctic Shark

Of the many sharks that roam our oceans, only a few enter the Polar regions; of these, only the Greenland shark is known to permanently inhabit the Arctic Sea. Found across the North Atlantic, from northern Europe to Canada, this shark feeds at great depths (down 2000 feet or more) for most of the year, ascending to shallower water during the winter months.

Rivaling the size of a Great White, the Greenland shark has long been hunted for its liver oil and meat; however, the latter harbors a neurotoxin and must be boiled several times and then dried before eating. Human hunters, noticing its rather docile nature during capture, inspired the common title of "sleeper shark" for this largest member of the dogfish family. Nevertheless, it appears to be capable of catching agile fish, belugas, narwhals and seals; it has also been known to feed on polar bears and caribou, perhaps nabbing them as they cross open water. Of special interest is the susceptibility of these sharks to parasitic copepods, which attach to their corneas; past theories that these parasites aided the shark by attracting prey have not been confirmed.

So, if you're dreading two more months of winter and have begun to feel sorry for yourself, just think of the Greenland shark. You could be swimming in the cold, dark waters of the North Atlantic, with a copepod attached to each eye!

A Touch of April

It may have looked like winter in mid Missouri yesterday but it sure felt like spring. Down at the Forum Nature Area, the trees were bare, the grass was brown and the sky was gray. A mix of sparrows and juncos foraged along the trails, small flocks of waterfowl dabbled in the shallows and a lone red-tail circled overhead. The only spring-like color was provided by an occasional cardinal and by a group of eastern bluebirds, perched on a power line.

But a warm, moist air mass had moved into the State and afternoon temperatures hovered in the low sixties. One could almost hear the tree frogs, gearing up for a long spring. And, of course, the mild conditions brought out hordes of humans, those pampered mammals that usually hibernate during the winter months.

As usual, this hint of spring in January was a harbinger of coming change, produced by a southerly flow ahead of the next cold front. The latter arrived overnight and we'll stay in the twenties today. The Midwest roller coaster remains on track!

The Winter Wren

Mention "wren" and most Americans will think of a small, brownish, noisy bird that flits among their shrubs and woodpile during the warmer months. Of course, this would be the house wren, a common summer resident throughout much of the U.S. But its cousin, the winter wren, is less common and far less conspicuous.

This tiny bird breeds across Canada, the Great Lakes region, New England and down through the Appalachians, wintering in the Midwest, Southeast and along the Pacific Coast. Smaller than the house wren, it has a plump figure, accentuated by a short bill and very short tail. Despite its diminutive stature, the winter wren is known for its loud, clear, high pitched trills, which are often the only clue to the presence of this reclusive winter visitor.

Usually alone during the colder months, the winter wren is best found in thickets or dense tangles along ravines or stream beds. There it finds insects, snails and other small invertebrates on which to survive the lean season. Come late March, this hardy bird will depart for northern breeding grounds where it favors the understory of coniferous woodlands.

The Age of Man

Though humans appeared 125,000 years ago, we were just another mammal species for much of our history, traveling and camping in small groups, hunters as well as potential prey. Then, about 15-20,000 years ago, man began to establish permanent settlements, followed by the development of trade routes, the domestication of animals and the cultivation of plants.

These towns and cities fostered innovation and, over time, the advance of science, industry and technology. As a consequence, our species began to take an increasing toll on natural ecosystems and on the global environment. Habitat destruction, pollution, warfare and the depletion of natural resources began to threaten the fragile balance of life on this planet. Over the past few decades, the environmental movement has begun to counter these effects but the threats imposed by an ever increasing human population remain significant.

How and when will the Age of Man come to an end? Potential scenarios include a natural catastrophe (asteroid strike, super volcanic explosion), the irreversible poisoning of our water and air, nuclear war, a lethal epidemic or the exhaustion of Earth's resources. Should man become extinct (or depart for another planet) before the sun dies, most other life forms will likely have succumbed to the tragic events, leaving bacteria, algae and other primitive species to ignite another sequence of evolution.

Natural Weight Loss

Of all the New Year's resolutions, whether expressed, written or merely contemplated, the commitment to lose weight is surely the most common. Unfortunately, many of these hopeful individuals will turn to restrictive, expensive or fad diets to accomplish their goal. But, if they are truly committed and have the support of family and friends, the following recommendations will bring success.

Eat three balanced meals each day; skipping meals will just encourage the consumption of unhealthy, high-calorie snacks. Decline second helpings and do not eat fried or sugar-sweetened foods. The intake of at least two servings of fruit each day will provide important nutrients and help to eliminate any craving for sweets. Between meals, consume nothing but water or calorie free drinks; restrict alcohol intake to no more than three drinks each week. Finally, with regard to food intake, treat yourself to one dessert each week.

Of course, calorie restriction and healthy food consumption are only part of the solution. Plan to walk one mile each day (in addition to whatever walking you do at work or in your daily chores); over time, gradually increase the distance that you cover. In addition, unless limited by health or physical conditions, bypass the elevator and take the stairs for any distance less than four floors. The combination of these activities and the above dietary recommendations will produce weight loss at a gradual, healthy rate and will likely induce other beneficial lifestyle changes.

Best wishes for a healthy and Happy New Year!

Celebrity Worship

Throughout human history, our species has been enamored with celebrities. Initially, these individuals were shamans and tribal chiefs, replaced by kings, queens, princes, warriors and priests as time moved on. Though titles and identities have changed, man confers celebrity for a few primary traits: power, physical prowess, wealth and beauty.

Today, in modern Western society, our celebrities are primarily athletes and entertainers and our image of them is somewhat schizophrenic. On the one hand, we expect them to be more than they are; interested in every aspect of their lives, we support the industries that fawn over them, wear jerseys emblazoned with their names and pay ridiculous fees just to be in their presence. Convinced of their importance, we readily overlook their foibles (multiple divorces, drug use, criminal behavior), which often only enhance their celebrity. On the other hand, our sadistic side feeds the gossip mills and the cable shows that focus on their dysfunctional lives; as individuals, they are afforded little privacy.

Man's tendency to worship celebrity is a reflection of the human condition. Well aware of our own flaws and limitations, we are reassured that others have conquered them. And while admiring the talent and achievements of these celebrities, we are also comforted by their failures. In the end, they boost our own self esteem.

Winter Marsh

Our Midwest wetlands are surely not as fascinating during the winter as they are during the warmer months. The colorful songbirds have departed for southern climes and wetland wildflowers have long gone to seed. No frogs croak from the shallows and no turtles lounge in the mid day sun. Rails have left their backwater haunts and most waders have moved on to milder wintering grounds. Perhaps most striking is the silence, broken only by the distant call of geese or the friction of dried cattails in the cold winter wind.

But there is still much to see in the winter marsh. A variety of sparrows gather in the dense, dead vegetation, escaping the wind and searching for seeds; song and white-throated sparrows are most common but American tree, fox, Harris' and swamp sparrows may also be found. Northern harriers and sharp-shinned hawks swoop across the marsh, red-tailed hawks circle overhead and barred owls survey the scene from nearby woodlands. If open water persists, wintering ducks (mallards, gadwall, green-winged teal) may be seen and great blue herons, seemingly out of place in the cold, snowy weather, often stalk the shallows.

Those who visit early or late in the day have the chance to observe marshland mammals, most of which remain active through the year. Mink hunt along the banks or man-made dikes, searching for mice, muskrats and unwary ducks. Raccoons and opossums, opportunistic as they are, scour the marsh for anything edible while beaver and muskrat ply the open waters. The colors and noise may have faded but there's still plenty of activity in these crucibles of life.

The Rise of Endotherms

Life evolved in the ocean, some 3.6 billion years ago, and, for most of its history on Earth, has been confined to the sea. Shelled marine life had evolved by 600 million years ago (MYA) and both sharks and bony fish appeared during the Devonian Period, some 375 MYA. The first land animals, millipede-like organisms, crawled ashore during the Silurian (420 MYA), giving rise to terrestrial insects and spiders over the next 100 million years. Amphibians diversified and reptiles evolved during the Carboniferous Period (350-270 MYA) and, by the Permian (270-225 MYA), mammal-like reptiles appeared.

All of the above animals are/were ectotherms: they have an internal body temperature that matches their surroundings (some sharks, fish and insects, able to generate heat in certain muscle groups, are better classified as heterotherms). Early in the Mesozoic (200 MYA), endotherms, initially represented by small dinosaurs and the earliest mammals, evolved; these Triassic creatures (joined by the first birds during the Jurassic) were able to regulate their internal temperature by controlling regional blood flow (to conserve or dissipate heat), by shivering, sweating (or panting) and by maintaining a high metabolic rate. The evolution of fur, feathers and subdermal fat provided additional insulation and improved heat conservation.

Endotherms, most of which are homeotherms (maintaining a stable core temperature), are less restricted by their environment, have colonized all regions of the globe and can remain active during all seasons. Man, of course, has little external insulation but had the intelligence to develop clothing, control fire and build shelters. Mammal hibernation adds a final twist to the story; more than a behavior to escape the cold, torpor is an active process, lowering the metabolic rate, producing hypothermia and conserving energy during periods of reduced food supply.

Weather and Wildlife

Today provided inspiration for indoor activities. Heavy rain, falling temperatures and the promise of ice have kept most of us out of the elements. And, equipped with heated homes, cars, malls, theaters and supermarkets, there was little need to venture into the great outdoors. But our wild neighbors, who fend for themselves, have little choice; they must endure the cold rain or skip dinner!

Of course, their fur and feathers provide ample protection as they hunt for prey or scour the landscape for nuts, berries and hibernating insects. In the midst of this morning's downpour, a pair of titmice moved between the feeder and suet block, their distinctive crests plastered to their skulls. At the same time, a fox squirrel, using his tail as an umbrella, managed to dislodge a pine cone feeder before carting it off to his den. And throughout the day, despite the weather, the usual mix of residential birds paid their respects.

Beyond their natural protection and survival skills, wild creatures are not burdened by man's preoccupation with the past and the future. They do not dwell on the glorious days of autumn or anticipate the coming spring. They have no thermometers or calendars to check and are not inclined toward procrastination. Rather, they are focused on the present and must take what comes; their survival depends on a day to day approach to life. If only we could adopt that attitude!

December Deluge

In advance of the latest cold front, strong southerly winds brought warm, humid air into the Heartland over the past 24 hours; at dawn, it was 68 degrees F in central Missouri (five degrees warmer than it was in Tampa, Florida). But, by mid morning, distant thunder warned of a coming change.

The line of thunderstorms arrived at 9:30 AM, accompanied by torrential rain and gusty winds; a doppler-indicated tornado, northeast of Columbia, triggered the warning sirens, which blared across the city for ten minutes or so. The downpour has diminished over the past hour but a second round of storms, attached to the cold front, is now approaching from the northwest and more heavy rain is expected. Since the ground remains frozen from our recent Arctic weather, runoff will be significant and a flash flood watch has been issued for most of the region.

Behind the front, temperatures will fall through the day, bringing a mix of sleet and snow by this evening; the overnight low is forecast to be in the mid 20s. After a brief taste of spring, more seasonable conditions should prevail throughout the coming week.

Barrier Islands

Barrier islands, among the most transient landforms on the planet, are common along the Atlantic and Gulf Coasts of North America, from Cape Cod southward. Formed by the action of waves and currents, these narrow islands are essentially offshore dunes, stabilized by a variety of grasses, shrubs and trees; this natural vegetation, tolerant of the salty and sandy conditions, is derived from seeds that blow out from the mainland (man has since added his own assortment of ornamental species).

Initially inhabited only by sea birds, marine mollusks and temporary visitors (such as sea turtles), most of the islands now harbor beach resorts, perched precariously on these shifting mounds of sand. While modern structures are anchored into the deep bedrock, all development on the offshore islands is prone to damage or destruction from the tropical storms and hurricanes that sweep across the region. In addition, island wildlife is threatened by mainland species (such as raccoons) that now reach these sandy refuges via man-made bridges.

Barrier islands form along coasts were the Continental Shelf is broad and shallow, making them especially susceptible to storm surge and wave erosion. Islands not destroyed or cut apart by storms will eventually merge with the mainland as the intervening bay is filled in by river sediment and by sand pushed through the inlets. Of course, humans keep their boat channels open by dredging, but, in time, nature will have her way!

Man and his Gods

Throughout human history, which spans 125,000 years, man has imagined gods and mystical beings that would supply his needs (rain, a good harvest, wealth) and protect him from danger (storms, warfare, illness, death). Over time, the identity of these deities has evolved but their purpose remains the same. Today, our preferred image is determined by our culture and, as in the past, is ingrained in our psyche during childhood.

One would like to think that such beliefs are harmless social customs that promote the common good. But anyone with a knowledge of history understands the dark side of religious fervor; too often, it is a source of hate, discrimination, intolerance and persecution.

Tomorrow, Christians celebrate the birth of Jesus, who, they believe, was the Son of God. By all accounts, he led a simple life, preached tolerance and encouraged his followers to share their talents and wealth. Two thousand years later, the Christian Church has become a political and financial power broker, run by entrenched hierarchies and media entrepreneurs. Conservative Christian zealots, self-righteous and narrow-minded, foster intolerance and work to impose their social agenda. Unfortunately, there are plenty of fearful, uneducated, guilt-ridden followers to heed their call, marking the latest chapter in man's quest for immortality.

Merry Christmas to all!

The Misnamed Woodpecker

Most abundant in pine lands and bottom woods of the Southeast, the red-bellied woodpecker is common in open woodlands and residential areas of eastern North America, from southernmost Canada to Florida; those that breed across northern limits of this range move southward in the winter. Feeding on a wide variety of insects, nuts and berries, the red-belly often visits backyard feeders, especially during the colder months, and it is then that novice or casual birders first notice it.

A bit smaller than the similarly shaped flicker, this woodpecker is identified by his black and white "ladder back", beige underparts and bright red crown (limited to the nape in females); ironically, it is named for a pale red blush on its abdomen which is often invisible in the field. A distinctive, rolling "churrr" usually announces its presence; unlike flickers, the red-bellied woodpecker is seldom found in flocks.

Perhaps this species should have been called the zebraback or red-crowned woodpecker but the power brokers of the bird world make these decisions. Regardless of its name, the red-belly, attractive and beneficial, is always a welcome visitor in our yard!

Out of the Dark

Having just endured the longest night of the year, our daylight will gradually lengthen until the summer solstice, on or about June 21; this reflects the tilt of the Earth's axis, causing the Northern Hemisphere to receive increasingly direct solar radiation through the period. Of course, the sun angle will remain too low to provide significant warmth at our latitude for another two months and there will be plenty more winter weather before spring takes hold.

Even so, it is reassuring to know that the days will be lengthening. Humans are not naturally equipped for the cold and the dark. We evolved in the Tropics and, regardless of our personal preferences, we have a deep-seated connection to warm, sunny weather. Besides, with the exception of deep ocean ecosystems, all life on Earth is dependent on the sun. Primitive man, though devoid of scientific tools, knew this instinctively and marked the solstice with various rituals. Today, we understand the astronomical cause for the event but it is no less comforting.