William Erey Smith Waukena Preserves

A few miles south of our cabin are the William E. Smith Waukena Preserves (North and South Units).  They are managed by the Southwest Michigan Land Conservancy.  Access is via Lakeshore Drive, between the Fennville and Glenn Exits from 196.

The North Unit is primarily covered by coastal forest (photo) and its trail provides access to the Lake Michigan beach.  On our walk through the woodland, we were serenaded by the varied melodies of blue jays and the drumming of red-bellied woodpeckers; melanistic gray squirrels chimed in as well.  Of interest, signage informed us that Douglas fir trees, planted there long ago but not native to the region, have been dying from a fungal infection and are being removed.

The South Unit is characterized by a more open landscape of meadows, wetlands and parcels of forest; several ponds are also spaced throughout the preserve.  This morning's highlight proved to be the wildflowers, dominated by large swaths of goldenrod and white aster. 

The Kalamazoo River

Four primary rivers drain the western half of Michigan's Lower Peninsula and empty into Lake Michigan; from north to south, they are the Manistee, the Muskegon, the Grand and the Kalamazoo Rivers.  The latter rises near North Adams in southern Michigan, flows westward through Battle Creek and Kalamazoo and then angles northwestward before entering Lake Michigan at Saugatuck.

This morning, we took a 3-mile loop hike through Tallmadge Woods Nature Preserve, which is tucked within the final bend of the Kalamazoo River before it enters the Lake.  Winding across the forested dunes, the trail leads to the Crow Nest Overlook (photo), which affords a broad view of the River's blind channel and of the Saugatuck Harbor Nature Preserve beyond.

While the Kalamazoo's passage through Saugatuck and Douglas is lined with homes, docks and marinas, this final stretch reflects the natural landscape that characterized its path long before the trappings of modern human culture invaded its floodplain.  

Saugatuck Dunes State Park

Stretching along 2.5 miles of secluded, Lake Michigan shoreline, this 1000 acre State Park is north of the city of Saugatuck.  Trail loops take visitors from the parking lot across forested, freshwater dunes (some of which rise 200 feet above the lake level) and out to the wide beach.

The southern portion of the refuge, accessed by a 5.5 mile trail loop, is protected as a Natural Area and harbors several endangered plant species.

Visiting the Park, one is struck by the large trees that now rise above the dunes, knowing that they took root well after the last Pleistocene glaciers retreated into Canada (some 12,000 years ago) and have managed to survive the massive waves that lash the shoreline (and that produced the the dunes themselves).  

North to Lake Michigan

Facing an empty social calendar this coming week (like most weeks), we decided to visit the southeastern shore of Lake Michigan, where we have rented a cabin.  Setting off early this morning from Columbia, we crossed the Mississippi River at St. Louis and then began a long trek northeastward, crossing the flat, Glaciated Plain of Illinois.  Once covered by tallgrass prairie, it is now a mosaic of crop fields and riparian woodlands.

Nearing the Lake, we negotiated a maze of congested highways and eventually continued NNE on Interstate 94, which parallels the Lake's southeastern shore.  Our destination was just south of Saugatuck, between Benton Harbor and Holland, Michigan, where our first reward was a beautiful sunset.

In addition to the lakeshore itself, we plan to explore a number of regional State Parks and nature preserves over the next week. Reports to follow.  

Outdoors when Possible

Having spent 40 years committed to an indoor career (Medicine), I always tried to get outdoors when possible, whether it involved yard work, birding or hiking.  Indeed, almost all of our vacations were to locations where outdoor activities were the primary attraction.

Of course, my lifelong interest in nature has been the primary reason for a preference to be outdoors, especially since that proclivity has led to an endless chain of new observations and experiences.  While the opportunity for exercise has often been a factor, an immersion in the natural environment, whether that be the backyard or a remote wilderness area, has been the primary draw.

Now, closer to the end of my days on this planet, I have much more time to indulge my passion but a bit less energy to do so.  Though nature walks remain part of my routine, a comfortable chair on the back deck or an unhurried tour of our property (whether in Colorado or Missouri) are more commonly employed.  After all, nature's residents can always be relied upon to pay a visit. 

Free Speech under Attack

In the wake of Charlie Kirk's assassination, King Trump and his Administration have intensified their attack on free speech.  Trump's Attorney General has declared that "hate speech" will be prosecuted, as if it can be clearly separated from other forms of free speech.

In addition, Trump has intensified his attack on the Free Press, suing both the New York Times and the Wall Street Journal for their reporting on the Jeffrey Epstein case.  As we have seen throughout human history, threatening and reigning in the press is one of the favored and most effective tools of would-be dictators.

Our King wants to control all public information in this country, thereby suppressing news that reflects poorly on his Administration while elevating that which glorifies his behavior and accomplishments.  Free speech, the bedrock of American Democracy, stands in the way of his ongoing charade. 

Climate Change & Bird Counts

This morning, while watching construction across the street (I am still a young boy at heart), I caught site of four Mississippi kites, circling the canopy of a neighbor's tree.  Upon reporting this incidental sighting on eBird, I was confronted by their vigilant  computer, advising me that the count was unexpectedly high for this date and location.  As I have reported in the past, I respect the need for accuracy and was not at all offended by the digital query.

On the other hand, I sense that climate change is already having significant effects on seasonal bird counts, especially for species that do not strictly adhere to the solar cycle; waterfowl and migrant raptors come to mind.

Over the coming years, eBird and other avian monitoring groups will certainly have to adjust their data and expectations.  No doubt, some species may stop migrating altogether. 

A Skink Mystery

Common five-lined skinks, also known as blue-tailed skinks, have always been abundant around our Columbia, Missouri, house, most often seen scurrying across the deck or brick walkways.  While their numbers seemed to be normal this spring, I have not observed them at all this summer.

According. to the Missouri Department of Conservation, they tend to be most active from April into June but my past experience, over our 28 years in this neighborhood, has been that they are commonly observed during the summer and early autumn months as well.  A brief internet search failed to turn up any history of significant die-offs for this species.

Perhaps the hot, dry weather has kept them in sheltered areas, though we did receive quite a bit of rain back in July.  The mystery of their "disappearance" thus remains intact but I am hopeful that they may surface when early fall weather finally moves in.  If they don't "return" next spring, I will have to assume that some form of disease decimated the local population; that would be tragic for a skink watcher like myself (not to mention for the skinks). 

Political Violence in America

Following the arrest of a suspect in the assassination of Charlie Kirk this morning, the Governor of Utah made an impassioned speech against resorting to political violence in our country.  Though I am sure I disagree with the Governor on many issues, I was very impressed with his effort to tone down partisan hate in America.

His central theme was that we can debate issues and protest peacefully while respecting the rights and welfare of our political opponents.  While this is a wise approach, it does depend on the willingness of both sides to be truthful and to support the concept of free speech.  Leadership committed to these principles must arise from both sides of the political divide and, most importantly, from the President himself.

Therein lies the primary problem facing our country at this difficult time.  When the acquisition of power, the enactment of revenge, the ridicule of opponents and the suppression of dissent are the primary tools of a country's leader, the political milieu encourages violence.  Elections, if allowed to proceed in a safe and reliable manner, are the only peaceful alternative.  

Angry Young Men

There has been a great deal of social commentary on the mental health of young men in recent years.  Blame has been placed on Covid, social media, "Manverse podcasts" and, most recently, the loss of jobs to artificial intelligence, all of which have led to depression, loneliness, a lack of self confidence and a smoldering anger with society in general.  A lack of close friends and no interest in dating have been common consequences.

Though I am not a social scientist, I am confident in reporting that I have observed an increasing number of angry young men in my daily life.  Having to spend more time on Interstate highways than I would prefer, I frequently encounter speeding, swerving, tailgating young men in cars and on motorcycles; fueled by anger and testosterone, they put their life and those of fellow travelers in danger.

I doubt there is any quick, easy answer to the social ills of young men, many of whom were clearly drawn to Trump's vindictive style in the last election.  It is up to family and friends to draw them out socially and to recommend counseling if indicated.  In their minds and thanks to the toxicity of social media, the deck seems stacked against them. 

SCOTUS Supports Racial Profiling

The U.S. Supreme Court, many would call it Trump's Court, has stayed a judgement by a lower court that Trump's Ice Squad's use of racial profiling is unconstitutional.  Their reasoning remains a mystery despite the fact that persons of color are skipping work or school to avoid being grabbed off the street.

In a recent interview, Judge Amy Coney Barrett was asked to explain what a Constitutional Crisis might entail.  She said she was unable to do so, a disturbing admission.

But we whites who speak American English need not be alarmed.  Trump's masked men will ignore us, even if we have an AK47 hanging from our shoulder.  On the other hand, I would recommend limiting your visits to the tanning salon, just in case your darker skin gets their attention.

Our Avian Soapbox

The upper canopy of our large honeylocust tree is a jumble of dead branches.  Though unsightly for the purist, it serves as a soapbox for many of our resident birds.

Among the more regular preachers and songsters are black-billed magpies, northern flickers, American robins, blue jays and mourning doves.  The dead limbs also provide a popular perching site for house finches and the occasional loner (e.g. Says phoebes).  At times, flocks of cedar waxwings gather there but they are too polite to preach.

A healthy amount of neglect supports avian diversity and I am more than willing to comply.  Nature, after all, does not like to be manicured. 

Sports Betting

I am old enough to remember when sports betting was relegated to bookies and casinos.  Now, thanks to an ever increasing number of online betting companies, it is an intrinsic part of most sporting events.

Bringing in revenue for governments, broadcasting companies, investors and sports leagues, it is widely available and actively encouraged.  More than betting on the outcome of a game or match, one can bet on what will happen on the next play or on the game stats for any given player; in other words, fans can bet on every aspect of their favorite sports.  Furthermore, newcomers are enticed with betting funds in their account to get them started (i.e. hooked).

While many fans might be able to participate without consequence, I suspect a significant percentage become addicted to the thrill of an occasional win and end up losing money that should go to more important obligations in their life; of course, betting company ads always include a number to call for those who succumb to such unfortunate tendencies.  Meanwhile, those who invest in the gambling services profit handsomely.

First Autumn Plunge

The first frost and freeze warnings of the season stretch across the Northern Plains this morning.  Though not especially early in that region, the autumn chill is getting plenty of attention after our long, hot summer.  Here along the Front Range, we awoke to an overnight low of 47 degrees F.

Some might suggest that this early September plunge offers more evidence that global warming is but a liberal obsession.  But a warming climate will not eliminate the seasons and, in fact, might make such "unseasonable" incursions more likely due to an energized jet stream.

Our recovery in Metro Denver will be rapid and we expect afternoon highs in the low 80s F for the next week.  Of course, the longer nights, dry air and high elevation will allow overnight lows to dip into the 50s F but our brief, more intense chill is already ending. 

Trump's Facade Cracks

Just a few weeks ago, King Trump was confidently on his way to dictatorship.  Now, following a series of judicial decisions, especially related to unlawful tariffs, the misuse of National Guard troops and his cruel approach to deportations, he appears far from omnipotent.

His promise to end the Russia-Ukranian War in 24 hours has blown up in his face, his choice for Secretary of HHS is under bipartisan fire for his total lack of competence, he has angered his base by calling the Epstein saga a Democratic hoax and his overall approval rating has fallen below 40%.  Worried about a "Blue Wave" in next year's midterms, Republican Senators and Congressmen are finally beginning to demonstrate an inkling of courage.

Of course, Trump is putting his faith in the Supreme Court which has previously declared that Presidents are immune from prosecution for official duties.  But they have yet to rule that Presidents may ignore the Constitution or the Rule of Law and we will soon learn whether they are truly independent or openly aligned with Trump's personal agenda. 

Calliope Hummingbirds visit the Farm

Broad-tailed hummingbirds are common summer residents on our Littleton farm.  Males generally arrive by mid April and begin their noisy, vertical breeding displays.  Females, which build the nest and care for the young usually turn up in May.  By August, the males and their buzzy trills head south, followed by the less conspicuous females and offspring somewhat later.

On this sunny, hot September afternoon, I encountered two tiny hummingbirds flitting about one of our large elms.  Based on their size and drab coloration, they were calliope hummingbirds, the smallest migratory bird in the U.S.  Having nested and summered on mountain meadows, they are on their way to Mexico for the winter; since they lacked the magenta throat of adult males, they were either females or this summer's offspring.

The sighting was the first for me on our farm.  It only took them 35 years to show up or, more likely, to be discovered by this intrepid birder. 

Florida ends School Vaccine Mandate

Today, Florida's lunatic Surgeon General announced that vaccine mandates will be eliminated in the State's public schools.  In his words, parents and their God will make that decision.

Once again, mysticism Trumps science (pun intended).  Following the histrionics of RFK Jr., Governor Ron DeSantis has unleashed the risk of deadly, preventable disease on the children of his realm, no doubt looking to please his Dear Leader in Washington (as he did with the fiasco of Alligator Alcatraz).

A slew of lawsuits from professional medical organizations is certain to follow but the word is out for those who favor religion over science:  "Send your kids to school; no vaccination records necessary." Will responsible Republican lawmakers come to the rescue?  Don't hold your breath. 

Conservation & Extinction

Ignoring the central message of the Jurassic Park films, some "enterprising" scientists are focusing on efforts to bring back extinct species.  In my opinion, this is an unwise and inappropriate endeavor, whether the extinction occurred at the hands of humans or not.

Once we gave up our nomadic lifestyle and turned to cultivation and domestication (both about 10,000 years ago), humans have had a significant effect on the health of other animal populations.  Of course, this negative impact greatly increased during the Industrial and Technologic Revolutions as pollution and widespread development destroyed ecosystems.  Rather than reversing extinction, a natural component of evolution, we should concentrate on protecting those species that still exist; reducing our population, cutting back on personal consumption, greatly limiting pollution and protecting natural habitat are the primary tools.  Nature will heal herself if we get out of her way.

Then again, we have an American President and Administration who are anti-science; they deny climate change, are cutting back (if not eliminating) federal support for green energy industries and even talk of renewing the use of coal in power plants.  Unless we reverse the political climate, the extinction of our own species will be greatly accelerated.

Spectacle over Hays

Heading back to Colorado today, I set out for Hays, Kansas, my regular, half-way, overnight stop.  I drove beneath cloudy skies for most of the 6-hour trip, encountering intermittent showers along the way.  When I reached central Kansas, sunshine prevailed and the temperature had risen into the low eighties F.

Stopping to pick up a sandwich, I was waiting for the order when I spotted a pair of Mississippi kites circling overhead.  Closer observation revealed twenty of the raptors above the city, perhaps the largest flock I have ever encountered.  Indeed, though most of these kites summer across the Southern Plains, I have never observed them this far north or west.  On the other hand, large flocks are common during migrations and this group was likely beginning their journey to southern South America, where they will spend the winter.

Having seen nothing of significant interest on the half-day drive (turkey vultures were, by far, the most common species) the kites were a special and unexpected treat.  Such is the nature of birding; some of our most memorable sightings are those we least expected.